Windows 10 stopped seeing the printer. Solution to the problem
For most Windows users, after updating the operating system to Windows 10, there is a problem in detecting a printer or all-in-one printer connected to a PC. The computer simply doesn’t see it. Let’s face this problem.
Inspection of the USB port and connecting cable.
To begin with, just in case, we need to check the health of the USB port (suddenly you accidentally pulled the cord and it went wrong). You also need to check if the wire is plugged into the device, as it may be disconnected from the PC.
You should also inspect the printer itself: is it turned on, is it inked, etc. If any of this happens, then Fix the problem and check the connection of the device to the computer again.
If everything is in order, then let’s move on to troubleshooting the Windows 10 operating system itself.
Check for problems.
First, you can use the built-in program to diagnose problems. It is installed automatically along with the installation of Windows 10.
To enter the troubleshooter you need to do the following:
- Go to the “Start” menu;
- Will be named “Control Panel”;
- Select large icons in the category;
- Click on the item “Troubleshooting”;
- Then select “Hardware and Sound”;
- Select the item “Using the printer”;
After clicking on the last item, the troubleshooter will start. It will check printer connections, required services and drivers.
Connecting the Printer to a PC.
The troubleshooter may fail to resolve the issue and may NOT see the print device. Therefore, you should try to install it yourself. There are a couple of ways to do this:
- You need to go to the parameters item through the control panel or just press the “WinI” keys. Then go to “Devices” and select “Printers and scanners”. Click the Add Printer or Scanner button and wait a bit. In some cases, Windows 10 does not see the printer, but there are times when the system successfully connects and installs it. In this case, the Internet must be connected to the PC.
- The printer you want may NOT appear in the search results. Then click on the button “The required printer is not in the list” under the green search line. Thus, you can install the device using filters and specify the path to the drivers on the site. The program itself will download them and install.
How to install drivers manually.
If after installing Windows 10 the printer does not work and the above options to solve this problem did NOT help, then you should do everything manually. You need to download and install the printer drivers yourself. To do this, go to the drivers section or the device manufacturer’s website and select a driver for your model. It must be downloaded for Windows 10.
After identifying problems with Windows 10, users have already published printer drivers from many manufacturers, and therefore it will NOT be difficult to find them on the Internet.
If you could not find a suitable driver for Windows 10, then download it for Windows 7 or 8.
It is better to uninstall the old one before installing the new driver, otherwise some errors may occur. To do this, go to “Options”, then “Devices”. Remove the printer by clicking on the right mouse button and selecting “Remove device”.
Windows 10 developer support guidelines.
You can also read the information of developers on the Internet in the functioning of their printers in Windows 10.
For example, HP claims that most of their devices shouldn’t have problems. For devices that worked properly before the Windows 10 update, the driver does not need to be updated. But if you still have a problem, you can download a suitable program from Printeros.RU or from the manufacturer’s official website. It also contains information on how to troubleshoot problems when the computer does NOT find the printer.
Printer manufacturer Epson also supports users. The company’s website contains all the necessary drivers and you can download them at any time.
Canon’s printer makers, like HP, say most printers will run on the new operating system without issue. Drivers can also be downloaded from their official resource.
After installing the drivers, problems should not arise. But if none of the above helped you, you can look for a solution to the problem for a specific device model. Maybe someone had similar problems and shared their solution on the forums. There are also English-language sites, but this requires knowledge of English.
What to do when none of the suggested options worked?
There are also cases when the device does not print after all the manipulations performed. Why doesn’t it work?
If you are reading this, then most likely the Windows 10 operating system will not be able to accept your printer. If in any doubt, consult experienced professionals for advice.
You may NOT be able to find the correct drivers for your device. And if you DO NOT want to buy a new printer, then you just have to return the previous OS. Look on the Internet for how to do this.
Launch of a 3D printer based on Cura
In this article I will describe how to quickly start 3D printing from an SD card on Cura.
Printer settings in Cura
- First of all, you need to download the Cura slicer itself. A slicer is a program that converts your 3D model into a G-code of commands, which give instructions to the 3D printer at what speed and where to move the coordinate table.
- After the slicer is running, you need to make the initial setup.
In the top panel, select the Settings item. Printer. Manage Printers. Add. Custom. Custom FDM Printer
Click “Add printer”. A window like this will appear:
We set the following parameters:
- X (width). the width of the 3D printer table
- Y (depth). depth of the 3D printer table
- Z (height). height
- Build plate shape. table shape (square or elliptical)
- Heated Bed. yes, almost all have a heated table.
- Gcode Flavor is a G code type. Of those printers I reviewed this RepRap (Marlin).
- Xmin, Ymin, Xmax, Ymax are the indents from the edges of the table. So that the extruder does not go beyond THESE values.
- Gantry Height. Cura can NOT print all the models on the table in layers at once, but one by one. One problem with this approach is the possibility of collision between the extruder and the printed part. 99999999. means that the passage is closed, but if you need this mode, then you need to measure the distance from the nozzle to the Y rail.
- Nozzle Size. nozzle diameter. Most often 0.4 mm. Typically, it is indicated on the nozzle itself. If you change the nozzle, do not forget to change this parameter here in the settings.
- Start Gcode. initial Gcode
- End Gcode. end Gcode.
Print settings in Cura
Now again in the main top menu, click File. Open File.
Please note that if you DO NOT see Some of the parameters, you just need to hover over some title, for example “Shell” and click on the gears. Then you can select the settings to be displayed on the panel.
- Layer height. layer thickness should be 1/2 of the nozzle diameter or less.
- Wall thickness. wall thickness. Actual parameter for parts in which the filling density is less than 100%.
- Top / Bottom thickness. bottom and top thickness. Actual parameter for parts in which the filling density is less than 100%.
- Infill density. the density of the filling. If you want to make the part hollow, this is 0%. If you need higher strength, then set 35%. Please note that a 35% fill part may be stronger than a 100% fill part.
- Printing temperature. printing temperature. For PLA plastic I set it to 220 degrees, for ABS. 250 degrees.
- Diameter. thread diameter. Most. 1.75 mm.
- Flow. flow. Usually 100%. If the flow of plastic is not enough, then this parameter is increased. I have used this parameter once for TEVO Black Widow. There was a reducer 1 to 2, and the Chinese forgot to edit the parameter in the firmware. Actually I had to flow 200%.
- Enable Retraction. retraction. After printing in some place and when moving to another place for printing, it is advisable to remove the plastic. At this point, the plastic feed goes in the opposite direction. This is retraction.
- Print Speed - print speed. Usually on budget prints they set 60 mm / s, I don’t like to wait for a long time, so on my Prusa I4 I set 150 mm / s
- Outer wall speed. the speed when printing the outer layers. But on the outer layers, I reduce the speed to 100 mm / s, so that the part looks neater.
- Top / Bottom Speed - printing the bottom and top layers. also reducing to 100 mm / s.
- Travel Speed - speed of movement from one print point to another print point. I put 150 mm / s.
- Initial Layer Speed - printing the first layer. Here it is desirable to set a lower speed. I set the speed to 30 mm / s.
- Enable Print Cooling. check the box for Pla plastic, no plastic is needed for ABS blowing.
- Generate Support. whether to generate support or not.
- Build Plate Adhesion Type. type of auxiliary layer.
- Skirt. skirt. It prints a small border around the part. In fact, you need it if you just want the plastic flow to normalize before printing.
- Brim. the same as the skirt only adjacent to the detail. I put it for tall details with a small area, in order to increase this very area.
- Raft consists of several auxiliary layers. Already on THESE layers the model itself will be built directly. Rafta makes it easier to rip off the model. I rarely use it.
That’s all, now we save the G code to the SD card and insert it into the printer. If you have any questions, ask
3D Printer Calibration
Sometimes the 3D printer owner has to do this. I will tell the Habr community about my way. Please note that the manual is detailed, but leads to excellent results. the model sticks perfectly and does NOT come off during printing.
To begin with, I will note that I perfected my skills on the SmartCore Aluminum printer purchased here.
Installation of heating platform
The heating (or non-heating, depending on the printer) platform must first be set in height. For this there is a limit switch for the Z axis.
This end piece can be adjusted in height using the clamping and clamping bolts.
You need to set it so that the surface of the platform clearly touches the extruder nozzle.
Humidity calibration we will use Pronterface from Printrun software package.
I see the advantage of this package as a clear and convenient control of the nozzle and the printer platform, but if someone is more comfortable using Repsnapper, it is also quite suitable. Cura is NOT suitable for calibration due to lack of functionality required for this.
To continue, let’s Make sure that when you press the “Calibration” button (“Home”, a white house is shown), the platform rises and rests close, but does not try to move further, to the nozzle.
Since the firmware on my printer is taken from directly from the SmartCore Aluminum repository (albeit NOT directly from Marlin), the nozzle goes to the middle of the platform. If this is not the case with you, and the nozzle remains in the corner according to zero coordinates. it’s okay, for further calibration It’s not important.
The following actions must be performed in turn on the center, in the corners and along the control circle:
- Click on Z-axis calibration
- If the corner rests against the nozzle (the center should abut, as we achieved by adjusting the height of the limit switch during preparation), then slightly presses the platform bolt at this corner until the minimum clearance appears.
- We eliminate the minimum clearance, but not more. Ideally, we should have the nozzle clearly end-to-end at all corners and center when pressing the Z-axis calibration.This is exactly the result we need to achieve for high-quality printing, in control of the result later.
- Now you need to make sure that when you click on, a gap will appear. If this does not happen, you can slightly loosen the bolt that presses this angle and, by pressing successively either the green house, then the button “0.1”, repeat until the desired result is obtained.
After we finished the calibration at all five points and checked them so that we did NOT have to change anything, we can proceed to checking the calibration result.
For testing, I use a simple model drawn in FreeCAD and generated by gcode in Cura. The more precise the plastic, the better. I take it here because of the declared accuracy and variety of colors. However, for testing we will use the natural color of ABS plastic.
The point of a simple little test model is probably ash. it saves money and time. It is in this sequence that it makes sense to check. However, if you are confident in your calibration, you can immediately start from step 2. Well, if you already have experience and are absolutely confident in your calibration, you can go directly to step 3. print 5pad.Gcode.
The difference in the number and location of products.
I will describe the verification of the first step, since the rest are similar.
Suppose one side of the platform is calibrated too high. This is very easy to spot as a result:
Top view: And what is more important for us now is the bottom view:
. This is what the Cura rim looks like if the nozzle is too high to the platform. Plastic does not fall accurately, sometimes clinging to adjacent lines.
Consider the opposite situation. if the nozzle is too pressed against the platform: As you can see, here, too, Not everything is smooth, the plastic, trying to fill the available space, fit onto adjacent lines, and on the next layer, the nozzle re-clings, is again injected over the available space. However, it should be noted that in this case the model adheres very well, and the calibration defect is NOT visible on the next layers. over, it may not even be noticeable at all if you choose a substrate in Cura to stick the model to the table.
Finally, Desired and correct result: Here you see a slight burning, but it is associated with an uncleaned piece of whining, which is clearly visible in the photo of the bottom view. Such burns are rather inherent in the previous case, when the nozzle is too pressed. And the rest. straight lines, tightly laid. It should be so. Congratulations. center point calibration is successful.
It’s a normal situation if this result is obtained on glass at a temperature of 100 degrees. In this case, if the glass is degreased and even, then after the end of the calibration, it will not come off during printing. You can try to peel the part off the heated bed after printing. Until it cools down to 90-80 degrees, you may not even succeed without damaging the glass. Also, the absence of Draft may be important, which affects the equally important uniformity of heating of the platform surface.
Here are general photos for ease of comparison:
View from above:
Further verification is similar in essence, but 4pad.Gcode should be printed. it covers a slightly larger central area. And 5pad.Gcode. will show the quality of the corner calibration.
Happy calibration everyone!
To complete the entertaining video, in which displays the enjoyment of the result:
As you can see, I’m not printing on glass, but more on that in the next article.
Why the computer may NOT see the printer
If the computer stopped seeing the printer, then in this case you will have to try to find the source of the problem. So why can’t the computer see the printer? Almost every user of office equipment faces a problem of this kind, and first of all, you should check whether the printer is properly connected to the computer.
Most often it is because of poor contact between the PC and the printer that the computer does NOT respond to the connected equipment. In this situation (if the connection is via usb), you should remove the cable and reinsert it, and also check the reliability of the existing connection on both sides. Make sure the USB connector is working when the wire is inserted. During the test, Connect the cable one by one to all connectors in the system unit, having previously disconnected the mouse and keyboard. Perhaps the PC will eventually respond to some of the connectors. Otherwise, you will have to contact the service center, because if the printer is not detected, then the problem may be in it.
If the computer or laptop does not see the printer and the problem is not related to the USB cable, the problem may be in the “broken” or “faded” drivers. It is also possible that you simply forgot to install them. If the situation is related to your forgetfulness, then download a special program on the PC from the installation disk, which you purchased with the printer. When installing Follow all the instructions that appear on the screen in front of you. If there is an installation disc, then you can find the corresponding drivers on our website in the Downloads section. You can also download them from the official website of the manufacturer of your printing device. When doing this, take into account the device model and OS installed on the PC.
But quite often the problem appears with existing drivers. In this case, its cause lies in the operating system installed on the computer. In a similar situation, it also happens that the laptop cannot even detect the connection to the printer via Wi-Fi. Why is the device not visible in a similar situation? The reasons for this problem may lie in the router that is not very configured to receive the signal, and not the paid services of the Internet provider, and not the settings made, and the antivirus may block the home network. Another reason that the PC does not see the printer via Wi-Fi may be the following. the IP address was not entered automatically.
So, if the driver is “buggy”, then to solve the problem, you first need to go to “Add or Remove Programs”, find the name of your printer there and remove it. Then again you need to go through the “Device Manager” to the “Drivers” tab, select the desired printer model and delete it. After that, it remains to install the printer driver again.
Viruses and system file recovery
If the computer does not see the printer and it connects to the device normally, then be sure to check the PC for viruses and other unwanted programs. In addition to antiviruses, it is advisable to use special utilities for this purpose, which have a narrow specialization.
It is possible that system files were damaged in your OS during operation or under the influence of malicious applications. Try to restore them in any available way. After the work done, install all updates that are important for the system and check if the described actions helped to solve the main task. If nothing really has changed, then it would be nice to reinstall the operating system.
Other Possible Causes
Another problem may be that on your computer “by default” you have selected completely different equipment for printing. This reason belongs to the category of the most common, but at the same time it is very easy to solve. To do this, after installing the necessary printing device, click on its icon with the right mouse button, and then put a check mark next to the inscription implying the use of the equipment by default.
If the printer is still not detected, i.E. It is not visible to the computer, then it is possible that the service responsible for automatic printing is disabled on your PC. Go to the “Administrative Tools” menu through the “Control Panel”, and then open the “Print Spooler”. Next, find “Startup type” and set it to “Auto”. In general, you will NOT need to do anything else in this case.
In addition, some users, due to their absent-mindedness, simply forget to press the power button of the printing device. It is usually located on the side or back, i.E. Not in the most convenient place. Therefore, before proceeding to the consideration of the above reasons, you should make sure that the device is actually turned on and the indicator on its case is on.
Thus, if you are interested in the answer to the question of what to do if the computer does not see the printer, then you should not immediately fork out for the services of the masters. You can cope with this relatively easy problem with a competent approach on your own. You should contact the service center as a last resort, if none of the above helped you and the printer on the network is not visible.
Why the computer can’t see the printer via USB
A number of users may face a situation in which their computer does not see the printer connected to it. Documents sent for printing, but not printed, the connected device is not visible in the list of devices connected to the PC, while the printer seems to be connected to the computer via USB correctly, and in fact should work. In this article, I will tell you in detail why the computer does not see the printer via USB, I will acquaint the reader with a list of the reasons for this dysfunction, and also tell you how to fix it.
Why the computer does not see the printer via USB. the causes of dysfunction
So why does the computer NOT detect the printer via the USB port? The reasons for this problem can be the following:
- Accidental PC crash;
- The user simply forgot to turn on the printer
- The connection of the printer to the computer is NOT reliable (the USB cable is not fully inserted into the connector, the cable itself is damaged, the connectors themselves for connecting via USB on a PC or printer are damaged)
- The driver for the specified printer on the PC is missing or “crashed”, or does not work correctly;
- The operating mode of the USB controller is incorrect or the USB itself is disabled in the BIOS settings;
- By default, another printer is selected
- The automatic printing service is NOT functioning (disabled);
- The culprit for the dysfunction is a viral program;
- A number of Windows system files are damaged, this may also be a prerequisite for the fact that the computer does not see the connected printer
- Hardware failure of the printer itself.
How to solve the problem with the visibility of the printer
So how do you fix your printer problem? I recommend following these steps:
- Make sure that the printer is on, if necessary, turn it on (the indicator on the case should light up)
- Restart your computer, sometimes it can help;
- Check the quality of the connected devices. Check the contact of the printer cord with the PC and the printing device. Make sure the plugs are firmly inserted into the Appropriate connectors and that the cord itself is NOT physically damaged. Also make sure your PC’s USB connectors are functional, AND not clogged with dust;
- Install (reinstall) the driver to the printer. Usually, when buying a printing device, it comes with a driver disk. It will be enough to launch it and install the necessary drivers on the computer. If there is such a disk, find the data in the model on the case of your device, and then look for drivers for it on the manufacturer’s website. If the printer is “buggy” and is unstable, then it also does not hurt to reinstall the drivers for the device, this can help solve the problem of why the computer does not see the printer via USB;
- Try to connect the printer via Wi-Fi network instruction here;
- Select this printer as Default. Go to the Control Panel, go to “Hardware and Sound”, then select “Devices and Printers”, select your printer in the list of devices, right-click on it and select “Use as default” in the menu that appears;
- We activate the automatic printing service. Click “Start”, type msc in the search bar, find “Print Manager” in the list of services, double-click on it, and make sure that the startup type is “Automatic”. If not, set the Required startup type and Confirm the changes by clicking on “Ok”.
- Scan your computer for virus programs (such tools as Dr. Web CureIt !, Malware Anti-Malware and a number of others will help);
- Check if the USB port is activated via BIOS;
- Check the integrity of system files. Run Command Term as administrator, and in it enter:
- Try to temporarily disable your antivirus and check if your printer works in this mode. For a number of reasons, antivirus can block the USB connection of the printer;
- If your printer worked well before, try rolling back the system to a previous restore point when the device was working fine.
- If you have tried all the tips and nothing worked, then you should contact your nearest service center with your problem, it is quite possible that your printer is NOT software, but hardware-related, and it may need repair.
Above, I discussed the reasons why the computer does not see the printer via USB, and also listed a set of tips that can help solve the problem. In most cases, this problem occurs due to problems with the drivers (their absence, “Off”, Incorrect operation), as well as in a situation when another printer is installed by default as the main one. I recommend that you follow the full range of tips I described above, this will help you effectively fix this problem on your PC.
3D printing quality problems. Overview of problems in pictures
Hereinafter, as an example, the menu of the Simplify3D slicer program is used. Menu items, their names and locations in your software may differ.
3D device does not print. there is extrusion when printing starts
This is a fairly common problem for users of new 3D printers, but luckily it’s very easy to fix! If your extruder does NOT start to push plastic when starting the job, there are 4 possible reasons for this. Below we will go through each of them and explain what settings can fix this problem.
The extruder was not prepared (filled) before printing
Most extruders have a bad habit of leaking plastic when they are not running but at high temperatures. Hot plastic inside the nozzle seeps through the hot-end, resulting in voids inside the nozzle where the plastic flows out.
Quiescent leakage can occur before printing starts when the extruder is preheating, or at the end of printing when the extruder starts to cool down gradually. If some of the plastic has escaped from the extruder, it will likely take a few seconds on the next extrusion before the plastic starts to come out of the nozzle again. When you try to start printing after the plastic has escaped from the extruder, you may notice some delay before extruding starts.
To solve this problem, just before starting work Make sure that you have prepared the extruder so that the nozzle is filled with plastic and ready to extrude. The standard trick is to print a so-called “skirt”. This “skirt” is a ring, a stroke, an outline around your future part, and while it is being printed, the extruder is filled with plastic. If you feel that additional preparation is required, you can increase the number of printed “skirts”. Corresponding settings are available in a number of 3D printing programs.
Some users prefer to pre-extrude the filament by hand. This process in the control panel is often called Jog Control.
The nozzle starts working too close to the platform
If the nozzle is too close to the print bed, there may not be enough room for the plastic to exit the extruder. The hole at the end of the nozzle is effectively blocked, so the plastic has nowhere to go. Obviously, this kind of problem is indicated by the situation when the plastic does not extrude onto the first or even the second layer, but somewhere from the third or fourth, as the platform descends along the vertical axis, everything returns to normal. This problem is very easily solved by setting the G-Code, which is located under the tab of the same name in the 3D printing program. There you can fine-tune the Z-axis position without having to change any settings directly in the hardware. For example, if you enter 0.05mm for the Z offset of the G-Code, the nozzle will be retracted 0.05mm from the platform before printing. Continue increasing this value in small increments until there is not enough space between the nozzle and the platform for the plastic to escape.
Filament grinded into the drive gear
Most 3D printers use a small toothed feed gear to push the filament forward or backward. Its teeth cling to the filament for precise control of the thread position. However, if you notice a large amount of plastic shavings near the printer, or if there is a feeling that some part of the filament is “lost”, it is possible that the drive gear has “gnawed” too much plastic. If this happens, the gears, when it tries to push the filament forward or backward, have no choice but to continue to bite deeper and deeper. Please refer to the filament grind section for instructions on how to fix this problem.
The menu of the Simplify3D slicer is used as an example. Menu items, their names and locations in your software may differ.
The print does NOT stick to the 3D printer platform
It is very important that the first layer of the print is firmly attached to the printer bed so that all other layers use it as a foundation. If the first layer does not stick to the platform, problems will arise later. This misunderstanding can be resolved in a variety of ways, so we will point out only the most typical reasons and explain how to eliminate them.
Print bed is NOT aligned
Many printers let you adjust the position of the print bed with a few screws or knobs. If this is your case and you have problems with the adhesion of the first layer, the very first thing to do is to make sure that your print bed is flat and NOT skewed. If skewed, one side of the platform may be too close to the nozzle while the other is too far away. To obtain the best possible first layer, the print bed must be adjusted accordingly. Most 3D printing software has a setup wizard to guide you through all the stages of platform leveling. Usually it, Bed Leveling Wizard, can be found somewhere in the Tools menu.
The nozzle starts working too far from the platform
After you have properly leveled the platform, you must also ensure that the nozzle starts to fire at the correct height from the platform. Your goal is to position the extruder at the ideal distance from the print bed: not too far and NOT too close. In order for the printed object to better adhere to the platform, it is useful for the filament to be slightly pressed into it. Of course, you can configure everything directly on the printer, but, as a rule, it is much easier (and much more accurate!) This is done through the program. Usually, the relevant parameters can be found in a menu like Edit Process Settings → G-Code. There you can set a global value for the G-Code offset along the Z axis, adjusting it extremely accurately. For example, if you set this offset to 0.05mm, the nozzle will print 0.05mm closer to the platform. Do not overdo it, set only very small offsets. Each layer of your object is usually about 0.2mm thick, so “small” offsets should be understood at this scale.
First layer prints too quickly
When you print the first layer of plastic onto the platform, you need this first layer to adhere well to the surface before the second is laid on it. If you print the first layer too quickly, the plastic may NOT have time to attach to the platform. For this reason, it is usually very beneficial to print the first layer at a lower speed. Most slicers have this option. You can find it roughly in the menu Edit Process Settings → First Layer Speed. For example, if you set this parameter to 50%, then the first layer will print 50% slower than the rest. If it seems to you that this is not enough, try to change it yet.
Temperature or cooling settings
The plastic shrinks as it cools. For clarity, imagine that you are printing an object with ABS plastic that is 100 mm in diameter. If the extruder is printing plastic at a temperature of 230 ° C, and this plastic is laid out on a cold platform, it will most likely cool down rather quickly after leaving the hot-end. Some printers have special cooling fans to speed up this process. If an ABS object cools down at room temperature of 30 ° C, a 100 mm long rib will be compressed by almost 1.5 mm! At the same time, the printing platform does NOT undergo such linear distortion, it is generally generally maintained at a constant temperature. Due to THESE events, the plastic will tend to detach from the platform as it cools. And this is an important point to keep in mind when printing the first layer. If you notice that at first the layer seems to stick to the platform, but then, as it cools, it starts to lag behind, perhaps the reason is precisely in the temperature and cooling settings.
Many printers that are designed to print at high temperatures (such as ABS) have a heated bed feature to help combat these problems. If the platform is heated to 110 ° C and this temperature is maintained throughout the entire printing process, this will heat the first layer, and it will not shrink. Therefore, if your printer has a heated platform, you can try turning it on so that the first layer does NOT cool down. In general, it should be borne in mind that PLA adheres well if it is heated to 60-70 ° C, and ABS works better when heated to 100-120 ° C. In print control programs, all this is configurable. In the corresponding menus, for example Edit Process Settings → Temperature, you must select the required platform from the list and specify the temperature of the first layer for it. The temperature value can usually be changed after double clicking on this parameter.
If your printer has a cooling fan, you can try turning it off while printing the first few layers so that they DO NOT cool too quickly. This is also usually found in the Edit Process Settings menu, under the Cooling tab. Here you can set the fan speed for the selected levels. For example, you might want the first layer to be printed with the fan off, but to turn on at full power when it reaches the fifth layer. Then you need to set two labels in the corresponding list. Layer 1 is at 0% fan speed, Layer 5 is at 100% speed. If you are using ABS plastic, the fan is usually turned off for the entire printing time, so one mark (1. 0% layer) will be sufficient. If for some reason you are working in very windy conditions, you may also need to protect the printer from the wind. When printing bridges and overhanging parts of ABS, it is better to turn on the cooling, so the plastic will cool and harden faster.
Print bed surface (tape, glue, other materials)
Different plastics adhere differently to different coatings. Therefore, many printers come with special materials, which are proposed to cover the platform for printing. For example, in the set of some printers there is a letter FIXPAD. to which PLA, ABS, HIPS, SBS adhere very well. Other manufacturers offer special self-adhesive films for the 3D printer table. If you are going to print directly onto these surfaces, it is always a good idea to make sure there is dust, grease or oil on them before starting work. It is enough to rinse them with water or isopropyl alcohol. and the effect will be very noticeable.
If your printer has a special material to enhance the grip of the print bed, you still have tons of options! There are many different types of ribbons that common plastics in 3D printing adhere to well. Strips of such tapes are simply glued to the platform, and then easily removed or replaced as needed if you want to print with other materials. For example, PLA sticks pretty well to blue masking tape, while ABS likes kapton, also known as polyamide film. Many users have had great success with temporary glue or spray applied to the platform. It can be hairspray, glue stick or more tricky sticky substances that will solve the problem if all else fails. Just experiment and find what works best for you.
If all else fails, use the fields: raft or brim
It so happens that you need to print a very small object, the surface of which is simply too tiny to adhere to the platform. In programs for 3D printing, there are often settings that allow this surface to be enlarged so that there is something to stick to. One of these options is called brim (fields). These margins are additional circles that are printed around your subject, so you get something like a brimmed hat. The option is enabled in the menu Additions → Use Skirt / Brim. Also, printing programs sometimes offer to print “raft” under the part, which serves the same purpose as margins. If you are interested in These possibilities, take a look at the corresponding guide. everything is explained in detail there.
The menu of the Simplify3D slicer is used as an example. Menu items, their names and locations in your software may differ.
Plastic is not extruded enough
Each of the 3D printing software profiles has settings that specify how much plastic the 3D printer should extrude. However, since the 3D printer itself does not give any indication of how much plastic it actually extruded, it may happen that less filament has been extruded than the program suggests (this is called under-extrusion). If such a problem occurs, you may find gaps between adjacent layers. The safest way to check if the printer is extruding enough plastic is to print a simple cube with an edge of 20 mm and at least 3 outlines. Look at the top layer. are all 3 circuits well connected? If there are gaps, under-extrusion occurs. If all the perimeters are in proper touch and there are gaps, the problem is something else. If you find that you are underextruding, there are several reasons for this problem, and they can be boiled down to the following:
Wrong filament diameter
The first thing you should check is whether the printing program knows the diameter of the filament you are using. These settings usually live in the Edit Process Settings → Other menu. Make sure the value is set there for the filament you are using. You can even measure this diameter yourself with a micrometer or a second precision instrument and make sure it matches the program settings. The most common filament diameters are 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm. On many spools of plastic, the exact diameter of the threads is indicated.
Too rice extrusion ratio
If your filament diameter is correct and the extrusion is still insufficient, you will need to adjust the extrusion ratio. This is a very useful parameter (sometimes called a flow rate, etc.) that allows you to easily change the amount of plastic being extruded. The corresponding settings live somewhere under Edit Process Settings → Extruder. Each extruder on your printer can have its own extrusion ratio, so if you have several of them, you need to select the correct one from the corresponding list. For example, you can change the specified ratio from 1.0 to 1.05, and then the plastic will be pressed 5% more than before. For PLA, the extrusion ratio is usually set to 0.9, for ABS. closer to 1.0. Try increasing this parameter in 5% increments by re-printing the test cube to see if there are still gaps around the perimeter.
The menu of the Simplify3D slicer is used as an example. Menu items, their names and locations in your software may differ.
Too much plastic extruded
The software constantly communicates with the printer to ensure the correct amount of filament is extruded. This is very important to ensure good print quality. But most 3D printers don’t have the ability to tell how much plastic is actually extruded. If your extrusion settings are incorrect, the printer may push more plastic than the program expects. This kind of over-extrusion will result in excess plastic having a catastrophic effect on the outer dimensions of the printed object. To solve this problem, you need to pay attention to several parameters in the settings of the printing program. See the section Plastic doesn’t extrude enough for details on what to do. Although these are instructions in case of under-extrusion, you can adjust the same parameters in the opposite direction. For example, increasing the extrusion ratio helps with under-extrusion, therefore this ratio should be reduced when over-extruding.
Holes or gaps in the top layer of the printout
To save plastic, most 3D printed parts are wrapped around a porous, partially hollow core. For example, when creating the internal volume of a part, only 30% of the filling can be used, which means that inside it only 30% will consist of plastic, everything else is air. Since part fillings can be partially hollow, we need the surface to be solid and solid. To do this, 3D printing programs allow you to specify how many continuous layers should be laid out on the bottom and top of the object. For example, if you print a simple cube with 5 solid layers on top and bottom, the program will do exactly that, and everything inside will be partially empty. This technique saves an impressive amount of plastic while keeping the objects themselves strong thanks to the adjusted infill settings. However, depending on which settings you have made, you may find that the top layers of your print, which should be solid, are not quite solid. There may be cracks and holes, although, apparently, they should not be there. If you face such a problem, there are some simple settings that will help you solve it.
Insufficiently continuous top layers
The first setting that you should notice is the number of top solid layers. When you are trying to print a 100% solid layer over a partially blank interior, the top layer should cover the void underneath. But a single layer will tend to stack and sag. Therefore, as a rule, the floor of the void is printed in several layers to provide a flat and completely solid surface. The golden rule is this: the solid part of the printout should be at least 0.5 mm in thickness. Therefore, if you have 0.25mm layers, you need at least 2 of them. If you print in thin layers, for example 0.1mm, you may need 5 solid top layers to achieve a satisfactory effect. If you notice gaps on the upper surface, first of all, you need to increase the number of solid layers of which it consists. For example, if this problem occurs with 3 solid layers, try placing 5 and see if it gets better. Note that these solid layers are printed inside your object, i.E. Its external dimensions do not change. You can change the number of solid layers in the menu Edit Process Settings → Layer or similar, in accordance with the used print management program.
Fill percentage too low
The inner filling of your object acts as a foundation for the layers above it. The solid layers at the top of the printout require the foundation underneath to be strong enough. If your fill percentage is too low, then there will be too much empty space inside. So, if the infill is set to 10%, the remaining 90% will be empty, i.E. There can be very large empty spaces, the floor of which you will then try to print a solid layer. If you increase and increase the number of solid top layers, and the slots on them do not go away and do NOT go away, you may need to increase the fill percentage to get rid of this misunderstanding. For example, if the fill percentage was 30%, try setting it to 50%, which will make the support under the solid top layers more secure.
If you increase and increase the number of solid top layers, and the slots on them do not go away and do NOT go away, the process may suffer from under-extrusion. This means that less plastic is squeezed through the nozzle of your printer than the program expects. A full description of this problem and ways to solve it are given in the section Plastic is not extruded enough.
Hair or spider web
Hair (cobweb, “hairy”, “whisker” printing) occurs when thin, unwanted plastic strands are formed when printing a 3D model. Typically, this is because such filaments are pulled out of the nozzle when the extruder is moved to a new position. Fortunately, slicers have several parameters that you can tweak to get rid of this mishap. The most common setting that combats this problem is usually called Retraction. If it is on, the extruder has finished printing a certain area of the model and pulls the filament into the nozzle, which is a good way to get rid of hairiness. When printing needs to continue, the filament is pushed back into the nozzle and the plastic begins to extrude. To see if the extrusion is set, you need to name it Edit Process Settings, and then select the Extruder tab. This option must be enabled for each of the available extruders. Below we will look at the important retraction parameters, as well as some other settings that will come in handy in order to get rid of cobwebs, in particular, the extruder temperature settings.
The most important retraction setting is distance. It determines how much plastic is pulled back into the nozzle. Generally, the more plastic is drawn in, the less likely the nozzle is to leak during travel. For most gearless extruders, a retract distance of 0.5-2.0mm is sufficient, although some Bowden extruders may require as much as 15mm because they have a large distance between the drive gear and the hot end. If you encounter the problem of “hairiness” in your work, try increasing the retraction by 1 mm and see if it improves.
The next retraction parameter to check is the speed at which the filament is drawn into the nozzle. If it is too small, the plastic will slowly drip down and may start dripping even before the extruder has finished moving to a new position. If it is too high, the filament can break away from the hot plastic into the nozzle, or the jerk may cause the drive gear to gnaw away some of the filament. The sweet spot is usually somewhere between 1200 and 6000 mm / min (20-100 mm / s), then retraction works best. Typically, printing programs offer pre-configured profiles that can be taken as initial ones, and gradually vary the values of the parameters in order to better fit them, for example, to the characteristics of the material used. So it is useful to experiment with different values of the retraction speed and see if the “hairiness” will decrease.
Too high temperature
If all is well with the retraction settings, the next most common prerequisite for cobweb formation is excessive extruder temperature. PLA is especially temperature sensitive. If it is too high, the plastic inside the nozzle becomes too liquid and it is much easier for it to flow out through the nozzle. If the temperature is too low, the plastic will be too hard and will be difficult to push through the hot end. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with the retract settings, and the described problem has not been solved, you can try to lower the extruder temperature by 5-10 degrees. This can significantly affect the quality of the finished object. The temperature is adjusted, as you might guess, somewhere here: Edit Process Settings → Temperature. Select the Corresponding extruder from the list and specify its desired temperature for a specific point in the printing process.
Moving long open distances
As we already said, the spider web appears when the extruder moves to a new position, and the plastic at this time flows out through the nozzle. So, how significant this kind of leak can be is largely related to the distance the Printhead moves. Short distances are covered quickly enough that the plastic simply does not have time to seep. But if the distances are significant, the probability of a web is much higher. Many 3D printing programs have an extremely useful feature that allows you to minimize the distance the nozzle travels over void. This is done due to the fact that the Trajectory changes from a straight line and shortest, to a longer and more winding. but above the surface. In most cases, you can generally choose a trajectory that will never turn out to be a “bridge”. That is, there simply will not be opportunities for the emergence of a web, because the nozzle will always be above something. Such an option lives somewhere in Advanced and can be called, for example, Avoid crossing outline for travel movement, i.E. “Avoid going out of bounds when moving”.
Overheating of plastic
The plastic that comes out of the extruder has a temperature in the range of 190-240 ° C. Since the plastic is hot, it is soft and easily formed into various shapes. But when it cools down, it quickly becomes hard, and its shape cannot be changed so easily. You want to balance temperature and cooling so that the plastic can flow freely through the nozzle, but harden quickly, ensuring the 3D print is sized accurately. If there is such a balance, problems with print quality can arise when, for example, the external dimensions of the object are not what you planned. As you can see in the photo, the filament, which was extruded to the top of the pyramid, will not be able to freeze quickly enough to maintain its shape. Here are some common causes of overheating and how to fix them.
The most common cause of overheating is when the plastic does not cool quickly enough. When this happens, the hot plastic cools down and takes on a variety of shapes. For many types of plastic, it is much better when the filament, once laid in a layer, cools quickly so that the shape does not have time to change. If your printer has a cooling fan, try increasing the cooling power to cool the plastic faster. The cooling power, or rotation speed, is changed in the Edit Process Settings → Cooling tab. Double click on the corresponding label, change the value. and it’s done. Additional cooling will help the plastic retain its shape. If your printer has a native fan, you can adapt some or even use a small manual fan, blow it over the object during printing.
Printing is too hot
If you have already turned on the fan and the problem has not yet been resolved, you can try to print itself at a lower temperature. When plastic is extruded at a lower temperature, it hardens faster and holds its shape better. Try lowering the temperature by 5-10 degrees and see what happens. This can be done in the Edit Process Settings → Temperature menu. Double click on the corresponding label, changing the value is done. Do not overdo it, otherwise the plastic will not warm up enough so that it can be pushed through a tiny hole at the end of the nozzle.
Printing is too fast
If each layer of your object is being printed very quickly, there may not be enough time for each previous layer to cool sufficiently, and the printing will be carried out on the floor of the hot layer. This is especially important for very small parts where each layer only takes a few seconds to print. Even with a cooling fan, you may need to slow down the print speed of small layers to give them enough time to cool down. Most 3D printing programs do this very easily. The Cooling tab of the Edit Process Settings menu most likely contains a Speed Overrides section. There is an option to automatically reduce the print speed for small layers to give them time to cool down and harden before a new layer is printed on top of them. For example, you can allow the program to automatically reduce the print speed for layers that are laid out in less than 15 seconds. This is a very useful option to combat overheating.
If all else fails, try printing multiple parts at once
If you’ve tried all three of these options and still have problems with insufficient cooling, here’s another thing to try. Create in Slicers a copy of the object you are going to print (Edit → Copy / Paste), or import another object so that it is printed at the same time. By printing two objects at the same time, you can provide more cooling for each of them. Heat the nozzle will have to move to another position above the platform in order to lay out the layer of the second part, and this gives a short respite, during which the first part can cool down a little. This is a simple but very effective method for overheating problem.
Offset layers or lack of alignment
Most 3D printers use an open-loop control system, in other words, as strange as it may seem, they have no idea about the actual position of the printheads. The printer simply tries to move the head to a certain position and hopes that it will be there. In most cases, this works because the stepping motor of the printer is powerful enough and some kind of load that could interfere with its operation usually does NOT happen. But if something goes wrong, the printer will NOT be able to detect it. For example, if you manage to hit the printer hard enough while it is busy, its print head can suddenly change position. Since the device has no idea what you are honored for, it will continue to print as if nothing had happened. If you find misaligned layers in your printout, this is usually due to one of the following reasons. Unfortunately, if such an error occurs, the printer itself is not able to catch it, and then a person must come to the rescue and solve one of the following problems.
Print head moves too fast
If you are printing at a very high speed, your 3D printer motors may have trouble keeping it up. If you are trying to get the printer to print faster than the motors can handle, you may hear a characteristic clicking sound when the bit fails to reach its set position. When this happens, the rest of the printable object will be offset from what was printed below. If you think the Printhead is moving too fast, try reducing the speed by 50% and see what happens. To do this, the Edit Process Settings menu has the Other tab. Adjust the Default Printing Speed and X / Y Axis Movement Speed. The first parameter determines the speed of any movement when the extruder is actively pushing through the plastic, the second determines the speed of rapid movements when no extrusion occurs. If the value of one of THESE parameters is too high, it can lead to displacement of the layers. If you are NOT feeling embarrassed when changing the Advanced settings, you can also try to decrease the acceleration value in the firmware settings of your printer so that the speed increases and decreases less dramatically.
Mechanical or electrical problems
If the layers remain misaligned even after the print speed has decreased, then the printer is most likely having some kind of mechanical or electrical problem. For example, most 3D printers use belt drives to control the position of the printheads by the motor. These belts are usually made of rubber, which is reinforced with some kind of fiber. The belts can stretch over time, which affects their tension and their ability to position accurately. If the tension is too low, the belt may slide off the drive pulley, i.E. The drive will rotate, but the belt will not transmit anything. If the belt was initially tensioned too tight, this can also lead to problems. An overtightened belt creates excessive friction in the bearings, which prevents the motors from turning. Ideal assembly assumes that the belt is tight enough not to come off, but not so tight as to block the system from rotating. If you start to notice misaligned layers appear, you must make sure that all drive belts are properly tensioned, not too loose or NOT too tight. If you think this is the problem, please contact your printer manufacturer for advice.
Many 3D printers also have belts, which are stretched over pulleys attached to the stepper motor shaft. Fastening there is made with small adjusting screws, also called set screws. This ensures synchronous rotation of the pulley and shaft. However, if the adjusting screws are loose, the synchronicity may be out of order. It may turn out that the motor is rotating, but the pulley is present. When this happens, the Printhead will NOT hit the desired position, which affects the alignment of all layers printed after a failure. Therefore, if layer misalignment occurs regularly, you must ensure that the screws on the pulleys are tightened well.
There are also some common electrical failures that also cause the motor to go out of position. For example, if the amperage supplied to the motor is too low, it may not be powerful enough to rotate. It also happens that the electronics of the electric drive has overheated, due to which the motor can temporarily stop and NOT work until the temperature returns to normal. This is, of course, Not everything, only a few common electrical and mechanical points are described here that should be noted Note if layer misalignment is a common problem.
Layers separate and split
3D printing is designed in such a way that at one specific moment, one specific layer of an object is printed. Each Subsequent Layer The floor of the previous one is printed, and in the end a given 3D model is obtained. But in order for the resulting object to be sufficiently strong and reliable, it is required to make sure that each layer is properly connected to the one below it. If the layers are not bonded well enough, the resulting object may crack and fall apart. Here are some typical reasons for this and suggestions on how to fix everything.
Layer too high
Most 3D printers have a nozzle diameter of 0.3-0.5mm. The plastic is pushed through this tiny hole so that very small parts can be printed as a result. But these small sizes of the nozzle also impose certain restrictions on what the height (or, if you prefer, the thickness) of the layer can be. When you print one layer of plastic on top of the second, you want the top layer to be pressed against the bottom so that they are adhered to each other. The iron rule is this: the layer height you choose should be 20% less than the nozzle diameter. For example, if you have a 0.4 mm nozzle, you cannot deviate too much from the 0.32 mm layer height. otherwise the plastic layers will not adhere properly to each other. Therefore, if you notice that your print is flaking, the layers are NOT sticking, the first thing to check is the ratio of the layer height to the diameter of the nozzle hole. Try decreasing the layer height and see if the cohesion of the layers improves. This can be done in the Edit Process Settings menu, in the Layer tab.
Print temperature too low
Hot plastic will always bond better than cold plastic. If you notice insufficient adhesion of the layers and are sure that the layer height is NOT too high, it is possible that your filament requires a higher temperature to print in order to bond the layers securely. For example, if you are trying to print with ABS plastic at 190 ° C, you will most likely find that the layers of the printed object split too easily. This is because ABS requires a temperature of 220-235 ° C for printing, then the layers are glued together reliably. Therefore, if you encounter this problem, please make sure you are printing at the correct temperature for your filament. Try increasing the temperature by 10 degrees and see if the grip improves. This can be done in the Edit Process Settings → Temperature menu. Double click on the corresponding label, change the value. done.
Filament is grinded, plastic crumbles
Most 3D printers use a small drive gear that catches the filament and guides it where it needs to go. The drive gear has sharp teeth that allow it to bite into the filament and push it forward or backward, depending on the direction of rotation. If the filament cannot move, and the gears rotate, it can “gnaw” it so much that it will have nothing to cling to to push the thread. Many people complain about this kind of problem: the filament is worn out, as a result of which the extruder cannot work as it should. If this happened to the printer, you usually find a pile of plastic shavings underneath, which are lined up by the drive gears. You can also Note that the motor is running, but the filament is NOT being pushed into the extruder. We explain the easiest way to get rid of this trouble.
Increase extruder temperature
If you are experiencing filament stitching, try increasing the extruder temperature by 5-10 degrees to make the plastic flow better. This can be done in the Edit Process Settings → Temperature menu. Select the Corresponding Extruder from the list and specify its desired temperature for a specific point in the printing process. At higher temperatures, the plastic always flows more easily, so this setting can be quite useful.
Printing is too fast
If the seam continues even after increasing the temperature, the next thing to do is to slow down the print speed. Then, since the filament will be pressed for a longer time, the extruder motor will NOT have to rotate that fast. Slower motor speed can help avoid stitching. These settings usually live in the Edit Process Settings → Other menu. Adjust the Default Printing Speed parameter, which determines the speed of any movement when the extruder is actively pushing plastic. For example, if you previously printed at 3600 mm / min (60 mm / s), try reducing it by 50% and see if the seam has disappeared.
Check if nozzle is forgotten
If the drive gear continues to gnaw on the filament even after increasing the temperature and after decreasing the print speed, it is likely that your printer nozzle is partially clogged. Please refer to Extruder Clogged for instructions on how to resolve this issue.
Nozzle clogged, plastic stuck in 3D printer extruder
Your 3D printer has to melt and extrude many kilograms of plastic over its lifetime. So that life does not seem like honey, he also has to push all this plastic through a tiny hole with a diameter of a grain of sand. And inevitably there comes a time when something goes wrong with this process and the extruder no longer manages to push the plastic through the nozzle. These blockages or blockages usually happen after something inside the nozzle is preventing the plastic from passing freely. This is especially frustrating the first time, and we will describe a few consecutive steps that will help solve the clogged nozzle problem.
Push the filament into the extruder manually
The very first thing to try is to manually push the filament into the extruder. For a start, it is useful to warm up the extruder to the appropriate plastic temperature. This is done through the control panel of the 3D printing program. Also, on the control panel, you need to find the Jog Controls menu or similar, with which you can feed the plastic forward or backward. Feed it into the extruder, for example 10 mm. When the drive starts rotating, lightly push the filament with your hands. In most cases, a little extra effort is enough to get the filament out of the problem area.
If the filament still does NOT move, the next thing to do is remove it from the printer. Make sure the extruder is heated to the correct temperature, and then through the control panel of the print program, pull the filament out of the extruder. As in the previous case, you will have to apply reasonable physical force: if the thread gets stuck, gently pull it. After removing the filament, use scissors to cut off the melted or damaged piece. Thread the filament again and check if you can now print with a new, undamaged piece of filament.
Clean the nozzle
A 3D printer stops printing at random during the printing process
If at the beginning of work the printer extruded normally, and then suddenly stopped, then such a problem is usually associated with just a few reasons. We will explain each of them and suggest a solution to the problem. If this kind of problem occurs at the very beginning of printing, refer to the section All extruding when starting to print.
Out of filament
This is obvious: before looking for the reason why the device does not print, it is extremely useful to make sure if it has something to print. If the coil runs out, you need to fill a new one, and then continue.
Filament grinded into the drive gear
During printing, the extruder motor rotates continuously, trying to push the filament into the nozzle so the printer can extrude the plastic. If you try to print too fast or extrude too much plastic, the motor can bite into the filament to the point of grinding everything off and the gears have nothing to cling to. If the extruder motor is spinning and the filament is NOT moving, this is probably the reason. Please refer to the filament grind section for instructions on how to fix this problem.
If all of the above is not your case, it is very likely that the extruder is clogged. If this happens during printing, you can check the filament itself for contamination, and also make sure that the spool is NOT dusty. If a dusty filament is fed into the nozzle, you end up clogging. There are several other possible causes of extruder clogging, so please refer to the All Extruder section when starting to print for details.
Extruder motor overheated
When printing comes in, the extruder motor comes in very savory. It constantly spins back and forth, pulls and pushes plastic back and forth. Fast movements are associated with high energy consumption (and release), so if the electronics in the printer are not sufficiently cooled, they can easily overheat. Usually motors have thermal protectors that will shut them off if the temperature gets too high. In this case, it may turn out that the motors along the X and Y axes continue to work and move the extruder head, but the extruder motor itself is stopped. The only way to solve this problem is to turn off the printer and let the electronics cool down. It may also be helpful to install an additional cooling fan if the problem recurs.
The filling of your 3D model plays a very important role in its durability. It is responsible for holding together the outer shell of the 3D object and maintaining its planes, which are printed on the floor of it. If the infill is weak or “hairy”, you will need to change several settings in the print manager to give extra strength to this part of your object.
Try changing content templates
One of the first parameters you need to take note of is the Used when printing the template’s fill. The pattern is described by the Internal Fill Pattern parameter. Some templates are more solid and solid, some less. For example, Grid, Triangular and Solid Honeycomb, i.E. Lattice, Triangles and Solid Honeycombs are durable fillings. Others such as Rectilinear or Fast Honeycomb i.E. “Straight” or “Fast Honeycomb” sacrifices the strength of the speed board. If you’re having trouble creating durable and reliable content, Explore the effect of the different templates.
Reduce print speed
Infill usually prints faster than other parts of your 3D model. If you try to print the infill too quickly, the extruder may fail and you will see an underextruded effect on the inside of your object. As a result, the filling will be fragile and cobweb-like, because the extruder has not been able to push through the amount of plastic that the print program expected. If you have tried different infill patterns and still have problems with infill strength, try slowing down your print speed. To do this, the Edit Process Settings menu has the Other tab. Configure the default print speed, Default Printing Speed, which directly affects the speed at which the filling is printed. For example, if you used to print at 3600 mm / min (60 mm / s), try reducing it by 50% and see if the filling is stronger and more consistent.
Increase the extrusion width of the filler
Another very powerful option found in some 3D printing programs is to change the extrusion width when printing the fill. For example, you can print an outer outline with an extrusion width of just 0.4 mm, but transitions to 0.8 mm when printing the inner parts. As a result, the internal baffles will become thicker and stronger, which will certainly affect the strength of the printed 3D object. These settings can be found in the Edit Process Settings → Infill menu. The Infill Extrusion Width is set as a percentage of normal. If, for example, you set it to 200%, the plastic extruded during the fill printing will be laid out twice as wide as when printing the perimeters. With this kind of setup, consider the ability of the print program to maintain the infill percentage you specify. If you set the internal extrusion width to 200%, each fill strip will use twice the amount of plastic. To ensure this percentage of filling, the whining plastic forming it must be properly spaced apart. For this reason, many increase the filling percentage after increasing the filling extrusion width.
Sagging, sagging, snot and acne
During 3D printing, the extruder has to constantly stop and start pushing the filament again as it moves from one position to another. Most extruders do a very good job of extruding evenly during movement, however, every time the extruder is turned off and then turned back on, slight deviations occur. For example, if you look closely at the outer surface of your 3D print, you may notice a small mark, and this is exactly where the extruder started working on a particular piece of plastic. The extruder, on the other hand, had to start printing the shell of your 3D model from some place, and then when the shell is finished printing, it returns to this starting point. These marks are commonly referred to as snot or snot. As you can easily guess, it can be problematic to connect two parts in Which there are incisions. Fortunately, many 3D printing programs have a simple tool to minimize these kinds of cosmetic defects.
Retraction settings and coasting gait
If you begin to notice small imperfections on the print surface, the best way to diagnose it is to take a closer look at each of the printed perimeters. Does this defect appear when the perimeter printing starts? Or does it appear later when the perimeter is complete and the extruder has stopped? If the defect appears early in the cycle, you may need to tweak the retraction slightly. Go to Edit Process Settings → Extruders. Immediately below the retraction distance there is a setting labeled Extra Restart Distance. This refers to the difference between the filament retraction distance when the extruder stops and the length by which it fills up before continuing. If you find a surface defect at the start of the perimeter, there is likely too much plastic left in the extruder before the outline begins to print. In this case, you need to reduce the fill length by entering a negative value in the Extra Restart Distance field. For example, if the retract distance was 1.0 mm and the Extra Restart Distance was set to 0.2 mm (note the minus), then every time the extruder stops, it will retract 1.0 mm of plastic. But each time it starts working again, only 0.8 mm of filament will be fed into the nozzle. Adjust this parameter until the defect at the start of extrusion of the perimeter does NOT disappear.
If the defect does not appear before the end of the perimeter printing, when the extruder stops, you need to deal with the second parameter. It’s called Coasting, i.E. Coasting. Its value is set, as a rule, directly under the retract settings in the Extruder tab. It allows you to turn off the extruder a few moments before it reaches the end of the perimeter, which will relieve the pressure inside the nozzle. Enable this option and increase the value until the imperfections at the end of each perimeter when the extruder stops rather than disappear. Typically 0.2-0.5 mm coasting gives tangible results.
Avoid unnecessary retraction
The aforementioned retraction and coastal gait settings can help avoid defects in cases where the nozzle is retracted, but sometimes it is much better to just try to avoid this movement of the printheads. In other words, make sure that the extruder never reverses its direction of motion and continues to work calmly and evenly. This is especially important for Bowden printers, as the large distance between their motor and nozzle makes retracting more problematic. To configure a parameter that determines when retraction is turned on, you need to go to the Advanced tab and find the Ooze Control Behavior section there, which translates roughly as “leakage control actions.” There are many useful settings in this section, which can be used to change the corresponding behavior of your 3D printer. As mentioned earlier, in the section on hairs and cobwebs, Stringing or Oozing, the retraction is set mainly so that the nozzle does NOT flow while it is NOT printing, and moves from one part of the object to another. If the nozzle does NOT cross open spaces, everything that flows out of it will remain inside the printed model and will not be visible from the outside. Therefore, many print management programs have a check mark to avoid unnecessary retraction, which indicates that filament should be retracted only over open spaces. Only retract when crossing open spaces.
Another useful thing is in the Movement Behavior section. If the printer is set up to only pull filament over open areas, it will be extremely beneficial to avoid all such areas. Some 3D print management software has a useful feature that allows you to change the trajectory of the extruder, minimizing the number of cases of overshoot. If this succeeds, there is no need to retract at all. This option is called the Avoid crossing outline for travel movement, i.E. “Avoid going out of bounds when moving”.
Another very useful feature in a number of 3D printing programs is non-stationary retraction. It is especially useful for Bowden extruders, which build up high nozzle pressure during printing. Typically, when these printers are finished working, the overpressure in the stopped extruder can cause a lump of plastic to form in it. For this situation, some 3D printing programs have an option that, if turned on, allows the nozzle to retract the filament as it moves. This reduces the likelihood of plastic clumping in a stationary extruder because the retraction is done on the fly. To enable this option, you must first configure several parameters. First go to Edit Process Settings → Extruders. Make sure Wipe Nozzle is on. This will mean that the printer will clean the nozzle at the end of each piece of the model when it stops printing. Set the Wipe Distance to 5mm to start with. Next, go to Advanced and enable Perform retraction during wipe movement. “retraction during wiping.” This will block stationary retraction as the printer is now told to clear the nozzles on the counter duct. This is a very powerful option and there is a very good chance it will help you get rid of surface defects.
Select where to start printing
If minor defects still remain, it is possible to tell the printer where it is permissible to leave such dots. This can be done in the Edit Process Settings menu, in the Layer tab. In most cases, the print start location is chosen to optimize speed. You can also randomize this starting point, randomize it, or specify a specific position. For example, if you are printing a statue, you can instruct the printing to always start from the back of the figure so that nothing will be visible from the front. To do this, enable the Choose start point that is closest to specific location option, and printing will start as close as possible to the specified point, the coordinates of which must be specified.
Gaps between filling and contour
Each layer of a 3D printed object is created from a combination of outer perimeter and infill. The perimeters of the layers follow the outline of the model, creating a solid and clean surface. The infill that is printed within THESE perimeters makes up the rest of the layer. It is usually executed in the form of patterns, which are obtained by the reciprocating movement of the printheads and allow printing at high speed. Since printing the infill canvas uses different patterns than printing the outline, it is important that the two parts are firmly connected to each other. If you notice small gaps along the edges of your filling, then the problems that are eliminated by the appropriate settings may be the following:
Insufficient contour overlap
Some 3D printing control programs have a parameter that allows you to adjust the bond strength of the outer contour and infill. This parameter is called Outline overlap, it specifies how much the filling will overlap on the perimeter, so that these two parts are better interlocked. This setting can be found in the Edit Process Settings → Infill menu. It specifies the percentage of the extrusion width, making it easier to scale for different nozzle diameters. For example, if you have specified 20% overlap of the contour, this means that the program will send instructions to the printer according to which the filling will overlap the inner part of the perimeter by 20%. The overlap allows for a more secure grip on THESE two parts of the model. If you have previously printed with a 20% overlap, try increasing it to 30% and see if the gaps between the perimeter and the inside of the print have disappeared.
Printing is too fast
Model Fill Typically Prints significantly faster than outlines. Meanwhile, if the filling is Printing too quickly, there may not be enough time for it to adhere to the perimeter. If you have tried to increase the outline overlap, but the gaps between the edge and fill have NOT disappeared, you can try lowering the print speed. To do this, the Edit Process Settings menu has the Other tab. Adjust the Default Printing Speed parameter, which determines the speed of any movement when the extruder is actively pushing plastic. For example, if you previously printed at 3600 mm / min (60 mm / s), try reducing it by 50% and see if the gaps between the perimeter and the filling have disappeared. If the gaps disappear at a lower speed, start increasing it little by little, until it becomes maximum, but not leading to defects.
Curled or uneven corners and edges
If after a while you notice that parts of your printout begin to curl, the problem is usually overheating. Plastic is extruded at very high temperatures and if it does NOT cool quickly, it can change shape over time. This problem can be avoided if each layer is quickly cooled in such a way that it does not have time for deformation before it hardens. For a more detailed description of the issue and how to solve it, please refer to the Overheating section. If you notice that the part begins to curl at the very beginning of printing, then the section Printing does NOT stick to the platform will help you here, which deals with problems associated with the first layer.
Top plane scratches
One of the advantages of 3D printing is that each object at each separately Taken moment in time is formed layer by layer. This means that when printing each specific layer, the nozzle can freely move to any place on the platform, if there is already a printed layer under this place. Since this allows very high print speeds to be achieved, you may notice that the nozzle leaves a mark as it travels to the surface of the layer just printed. This is usually most noticeable on the solid tops of the printed object. Scratches and marks occur when the nozzle tries to move to a new position, but it hits the already printed plastic. Below we point out some of the possible reasons for this and give recommendations on what settings can be used to get out of the situation.
Too much plastic extruded
One of the first things to check is the amount of plastic being extruded to see if it is too much. If it is too large, each layer will be slightly thicker than planned. This means that when the nozzle moves over it, it can catch on the plastic. Before checking various other settings, you should first pay attention to this. Read the section Plastic extrudes too much.
Vertical lift (Z-hop)
If you are confident that the plastic is extruding as long as it needs to, and the problem with moving the nozzle over the surface persists, it might make sense to look at a setting in your print program such as “vertical lift”. It instructs the nozzle to rise above the newly printed layer before starting to move to a new position. When the nozzle reaches the coordinates required to continue printing, it descends back. By moving slightly higher, the nozzle can be prevented from touching the already printed layer. This setting can be found in the Edit Process Settings → Extruder menu. Make sure retraction is turned on, then set the Retraction Vertical Lift value to match the height you want the nozzle to lift on return. For example, if you set 0.5 mm, the nozzle will always rise 0.5 mm before moving to a new position. Please note that this option only works in conjunction with retraction. If you want retract to turn on every time the printheads move, click on the Advanced tab and make sure the Only retract when crossing open spaces and Minimum travel for retraction options are off, i.E. Retraction is performed Not only when moving over an open space, and the walking distance is not minimized.
Holes and gaps between the corners of the layers
When printing a 3D object, each layer uses the previous layer as the base. However, how much plastic is extruded is also important, so a balance must be struck between the strength of the base and the amount of plastic used. If the base is not strong enough, you will have holes and gaps between the layers. As a rule, this is most pronounced at the corners when the size of the part changes (for example, if you are printing a cube with an edge of 20 mm and a floor of a cube by 40 mm). When changing to a smaller size, you must ensure that there is sufficient support to support the sidewalls of the smaller cube. There are a few typical reasons that lead to the base being not strong enough, and we will discuss each of them and show you the most useful settings for 3D printing programs that will help improve the quality of the final model.
Not enough perimeters
Adding a perimeter outline to the print will greatly strengthen the foundation of the next layers. Since the inside of the printed object is usually partially blank, the thickness of the surrounding walls is very important. You can configure this parameter in the Edit Process Settings menu, in the Layer tab. For example, if you previously printed two perimeters, try printing the same with four and see if the gaps have disappeared.
Insufficiently continuous top layers
Another common cause of weak support layers, i.E. Such that the floor of which other parts are printed is when the layers are not solid enough. A thin ceiling cannot normally support the structures laid out on it. This is solved in the Edit Process Settings menu, in the Layer tab. If you’ve only printed two solid layers before, try printing the same with four and see if it gets better.
Filling percentage too low
Finally, you should also check the infill percentage, which is set in Process Settings → Infill. The top continuous layer is laid on top of the filling, so it is important that this filling is sufficient. For example, if you have previously printed with 20% infill, try increasing it to 40% and see if the quality has improved.
Lines on the sides of the printout, a ladder of layers
The side surfaces of your 3D print are made up of hundreds of SEPARATE layers. If everything goes according to plan, these layers will form a single, smooth surface. But if something is wrong with at least one of the layers, it usually appears clearly on the outer surface of the object. This “defective” layer may appear as a line or groove on the side of the print. Often this defect manifests itself cyclically, i.E., for example, a line can appear every 15th layer. Here are some of the most common causes of this problem.
The most common cause of this defect is poor filament quality. If the filament tolerances are not small enough, these deviations will immediately be reflected on the walls of the objects. So if the diameter of your filament is only 5% of the length of the spool, the width of the extruded plastic can vary by 0.05 mm. That is, some layers may be thicker than others, which will look like a line on the side of the print. To get smooth walls, the printer must be able to extrude extremely evenly, and this requires high quality plastic. For other Possible Causes of Uneven Extrusion, see Uneven Extrusion.
Most 3D printers use a so-called extruder to adjust the temperature of the extruder. PID controller (Proportional, integral and differential controller). If this controller is not configured correctly, the temperature of the extruder will fluctuate during operation. Due to the design of the PID controller, fluctuations are often cyclical and the temperature fluctuates in a sinusoidal manner. When the temperature rises, the plastic starts to flow differently than when it is colder. This leads to the fact that the layers are extruded in different ways, a kind of waves are formed on the sides of the object. A properly configured printer must maintain the printing temperature with permissible fluctuations of ± 2 ° C. During operation, you can monitor the temperature of the extruder through the print program control panel. most programs have this option. If you see temperature fluctuations in excess of 2 degrees, you should calibrate the PID controller. For more detailed instructions, please contact the printer manufacturer.
If you are sure that uneven extrusion or temperature variation is not the cause, there may be some mechanical problem causing these lines and unevenness. For example, if the base on which the printer is installed vibrates or vibrates during printing, then the nozzle will also vibrate or vibrate. This will cause some layers to be slightly thicker than others. Such thick layers will appear as irregularities on the side surfaces of the printed object. Another common cause is when the vertical movement guide of the printheads is not set correctly. Also, the reasons may be jolts during a sharp change in the direction of movement of mechanical parts or incorrect settings of the microstepping motor controller. Even a small change in the position of the print bed has a big impact on the quality of the layers.
Vibrations and waves
The print surface may appear wavy if vibration or rocking of the printer occurs during printing. This is usually noticed when the extruder suddenly changes direction, for example near sharp corners. So, if you are printing a 20mm cube, then whenever the extruder starts to print part of the contour of the next side, it must change the direction of movement. Vibrations can occur due to the inertia of the extruder when it needs to change direction abruptly. and this is reflected in the printout. We will consider the most common causes of this problem, which are as follows.
Printing is too fast
The most common cause of wavy unevenness is when the printer tries to print too fast. When the direction of printing is suddenly reversed, an additional force is generated which results in a vibration that lasts for a while. If you think the print head is moving too fast, try slowing down the print speed. To do this, the Edit Process Settings menu has the Other tab. You will need to change the Default Printing Speed and X / Y Axis Movement Speed. The first parameter determines the speed of any movement when the extruder is actively pushing through the plastic, and the second is the speed of rapid movements during the time when the plastic is not extruded. To get the effect, play with both settings.
Factory Firmware Acceleration
The factory firmware that controls the electronics of your 3D printer usually has acceleration settings so that the mechanics will NOT change direction too abruptly. The priter, thus, slowly increases the speed and, when it comes time to change direction, gradually drops it. The nuances of this process are decisive in terms of the appearance of irregularities. If you have no problem digging into the firmware details of the electronics, you can even try to decrease the acceleration so that the speed changes more smoothly. This will leave bumps even less likely.
If none of the above helps and “waves” continue to appear on the sides of the printout, you may be experiencing a mechanical problem that is causing excessive vibration. It could be a loose screw or a broken bracket. Inspect the printer while it is running and try to locate the source of vibration. We know of many cases where users eventually found the cause of printing defects in mechanical problems, so if all else fails, it makes sense to try to approach the problem from this side.
Gaps between thin walls
Since your 3D printer has a fixed nozzle, problems can arise when printing very thin walls, which are only several times thicker than the nozzle diameter. For example, if you are trying to print a 1.0 mm wall extruded from 0.4 mm strips, you may need to tweak the printer to make the walls solid, with no gaps in the middle. There are several Special Settings for this in 3D printing control programs, which will help when printing thin walls. These settings are as follows:
Settings for thin walls
The most important related settings are those that determine the wall thickness. They can be found in the Edit Process Settings → Advanced menu. There is a very useful parameter called Gap Fill. It, as the name suggests, controls gap filling and allows the program to fill in small gaps between thin walls. To allow such filling, you need to check an option like Allow gap fill when necessary. If even after this kind of indication, gaps remain, there is another setting, which is useful to check. Go to the Infill tab and Increase the Outline Overlap. This will allow the filling to more closely cover the potential gaps between it and the contour. If, say, you used to print with 20% overlap, try increasing it to 30% and see if the thin walls have become more solid.
Extrusion Width Settings
In some cases, you may find that the result is better if you change the width of the extruded plastic strip. If, for example, you are printing a 1.0 mm thick wall, you can get a fast and durable result by adjusting the nozzle to deposit 0.5 mm filament. This will work well for parts with all walls of the same thickness. The extrusion width is configured in the Edit Process Settings menu, in the Extruders tab. Select manual mode and set the value.
Very fine details are not printed
Your printer has a specific size nozzle that allows you to reproduce very fine details with great precision. For example, many printers have a 0.4 mm orifice nozzle. Most of the time it works fine, but when you try to print on very small parts that are smaller than the nozzle diameter, problems arise. Let’s say you want to print a 0.2 mm thick wall using a 0.4 nozzle. Nothing good will come of this, because it is unreasonable to push a 0.2 mm wide strip of plastic through a 0.4 mm hole and hope that it will turn out neat. The extrusion width must always be greater than or equal to the nozzle diameter. For this reason, when you want to see a preview of a future model and click on Prepare to Print or something similar in the print program, the program removes such small details from the preview. Thus, the program tells you that with this nozzle of your 3D printer you will NOT be able to print too small parts. If you often try to print small things, this problem is familiar to you. There are, however, a few techniques that will allow you to successfully cope with such difficulties. The techniques are as follows:
Redesign the object to make its details larger
The first and most obvious is to change the design of the printed object so that it contains only parts that are larger than the diameter of the nozzle. This usually involves editing a 3D model in a CAD program. Once you’ve enlarged the fine details of the model, you re-import it into the slicer to make sure the printer can reproduce the shape you created. If all the details are visible in the preview, the printer should be able to print the converted object.
Install a smaller nozzle
In many cases it is NOT possible to change the design of an object. For example, it might be part of someone else’s model, or you downloaded it from the Internet. In this case, you should consider purchasing a second nozzle for your 3D printer, which would allow you to print finer nuances. Replaceable nozzle tips are available for many printers in the aftermarket to make this easy to handle. Many users, for example, purchase, in addition to the already existing 0.5 mm nozzle, a 0.3 nozzle. For detailed instructions on how to install the smaller tip tip, contact the printer manufacturer. Forcing the printer to print parts smaller than the nozzle, it makes sense only as a last resort.
If you can’t change the design of the original 3D model and also install a smaller diameter nozzle, there is only one option left. This, as mentioned, will force the printer to forcefully print small parts, which is likely to have some quality implications. Go to Edit Process Settings → Extruders and manually set the extrusion width. If you have, say, a 0.4 mm nozzle, you can manually set the width to 0.3 mm, then the printer, obeying the program, will try to print arabesques of this scale. However. we will repeat once again. most nozzles are not able to provide high-quality extrusion at such a ratio of their diameter and width of the laid out filament, so the responsibility lies entirely with you.
In order for your printer to print neat objects, it must be able to extrude very uniform amounts of plastic. If these quantities are different in different parts of the printed object, this will immediately affect the final result. Uneven extrusion can be detected simply by taking a closer look at the printing process. For example, if the printer prints a straight line 20 mm long and you see that the extrusion is going on with some kind of bumps, the plastic strip turns out to be of different sizes, you have a problem. Below we have collected the most common causes of uneven extrusion and suggested ways to deal with it.
Filament is stuck or tangled
The first thing to check is the plastic reel. We need to make sure that it rotates freely and that plastic can be unwound from it without problems. If the filament is tangled or the spool does NOT rotate quite freely, this will affect how smoothly the filament will extrude through the nozzle. If your printer comes with a Bowden tube (a small tube through which filament is guided), you must also make sure that the filament passes through it freely and without unnecessary friction. If the friction is too high, the tube should be cleaned or some lubricant should be used.
If the filament is NOT tangled and easily pushes into the extruder, the next thing to check is the nozzle. Perhaps there are some plastic fragments stuck there and interfering with normal extrusion. This check is easiest to carry out using the control panel of the print program, gave the command to manually extrude some amount of plastic. The plastic should come out evenly and evenly. If a problem is found, the nozzle may need to be cleaned. Please consult the manufacturer for the best way to do this.
Too thin layer
If both the filament is free to rotate and the extruder is NOT clogged, the problem may be with a few simple 3D print control program settings. For example, if you are trying to print in extremely thin layers, such as 0.01 mm, there is too little space left at the nozzle exit. The nozzle gap is only 0.01 mm and this can be a problem for extrusion. Check carefully if you have set the correct layer height for printing. You can see this in the menu Edit Process Settings → Layer. If the given layer height is too low, try to increase it, it may get better.
Incorrect extrusion width
Another interesting setting for the print control program right now is the extrusion width. She lives in Edit Process Settings → Extruder. Each extruder has its own unique extrusion width, so be sure to select the correct extruder in the settings list. If the extrusion width is much smaller than the nozzle diameter, this can cause problems. The golden rule is that the extrusion width should be 100-150% of the nozzle diameter. If the extrusion width is significantly less than the nozzle diameter (say 0.2 mm with a 0.4 nozzle), the extruder will NOT be able to push a uniform flow of filament.
Poor filament quality
One of the most common reasons for uneven extrusion, which we have NOT mentioned yet, is the quality of the filament you are printing with. Poor quality filament may contain inclusions that make it irregular. Other nodules affect the filament diameter, which also results in uneven extrusion. Many types of plastics simply decompose over time. Thus, PLA tends to absorb moisture from the air, and over time this will begin to affect print quality. It is for this reason that many reels of plastic come with a desiccant. a dehydrating agent, a desiccant. If you think that the cause of your troubles is in the filament, try replacing it with a high-quality new one, in the packaging. this may help.
Extruder mechanical problems
If you have checked everything described above, and the extrusion is still non-uniform, it might make sense to examine the extruder for mechanical problems. For example, many extruders use sharp-toothed drive gears that cling to the filament, allowing the extruder to push the filament in any direction. Extruders usually have settings that you can set how tightly the gear is pressed against the filament. If it is not pressed down enough, the teeth will not adhere well to the filament and the extruder will be difficult to control its position. Check with the printer manufacturer if your model has such settings.
Congratulations! You’ve reached the end of our list of the most common 3D printing problems.
This guide will be a great help for you to improve the quality of your 3D prints. We have compiled a large list of the most common problems, not forgetting about the software settings, and all this will help you solve all these problems. What is especially valuable is that this guide contains many real pictures, which make it easy to identify certain problems of a 3D printer. So let’s get started.
Take a look at the pictures below. They show the most common defects in 3D printing. You can name it in the picture in order to immediately get to that part of the manual where Direct recommendations for solving this problem are given. If you are unable to determine the defect that occurs during printing from the picture, simply skip ahead and read each section in detail. There are many helpful tips on how to improve your 3D prints.!
Installing and configuring CURA in Russian. Slicer for 3d printer
Slicer Cura is a free project from Ultimaker. The program is compatible with a huge number of 3D printers, the slicer can work with STL, 3MF and OBJ files and, if necessary, correct errors in 3d models. The slicer displays the trajectory of the printer head movement, the printing time and the mass of material that will be spent when printing from the selected material.You need to understand one very important feature, the CURA slicer is free and suitable for beginners and advanced 3d printers.
Installing the CURA program
After that, the site will offer to choose the direction of using the CURA downloadable program. For a quick download, you must select “i do not want to share any information”. “I don’t want to share information” and click the “download” button.
After that, the automatic download of the program will begin. Note that the program now “weighs” about 140 MB! During the installation process, you will see such a window, pay attention to it.
We advise you to additionally highlight the points, this will allow you to automatically open files in CURA in automatic mode in the future:
Open 3MF files with Cura
Open OBJ files with Cura
Next, you will be prompted to install the software in the form of drivers:
Adafruit Industries LLC Ports (COM and LPT.
Arduino USB Driver
We recommend that you install it and check the box “Always trust the software.”, This will allow 3d printing on a 3d printer via a USB cable with computer control and much more.
During the installation of drivers, it is not recommended to enable / disable any devices in the USB ports of your computer. After the successful installation of the CURA program, you will see this window
Click “done” and wait for the main window of the CURA program to open.
Transition to Russian
So, you will be presented with the “Add Printer” screen. We recommend that you close this window for now and go to the main menu “Settings”. “Configure setting visibility.”
Then the “Preferences” window will open. And you need to select the item “General” on the left in the menu and find Russian in the drop-down list “Language”. And for the settings to take effect, you need to restart the program, after which you will see that the program has switched to Russian.
Adding a printer
You can choose from the list or create your own
Now you can add your own printer. To do this, select “parameters” in the main menu of the program. “a printer”. “Add Printer”
You will see the “Add Printer” screen. If you have an Ultimaker printer, then find your model in the suggested list. If you have another printer, then you need to click on the “Other” button and also select your printer from the list provided.
If you DIDN’T find your printer in the proposed lists, it’s okay, you can add your printer by clicking the “Custom” button, Change the name of the 3d printer and click the “Add Printer” button.
You will see the “Add Printer. Printer Settings” window.
On the Printer tab, you need to set the following very important parameters: Width of the printable area X Depth of the printable area Y Height of the printable area Z Heated table (if it has a heating option) Head parameters (you can adjust the “offset” from the edge of the table so that the extruder does not go beyond THESE values ) Portal Height: This setting indicates the height below which you cannot move above the printed model, otherwise there will be a collision. This option allows you to set the sequential 3D printing mode when printing several models on a 3D printer, each model separately. This means that the models will be printed in turn, first, second, third, etc., and not going through everything layer by layer. If you nevertheless decide to configure this option, you need to keep in mind that the models must be placed in such a way that the extruder or the guides do NOT hook the already printed model. By default, the parameter 99999999999 is specified, which means. “the passage is closed”. The number of extruders
On the Extruder tab, you will need to set other very important parameters: the diameter of the nozzle diameter of the compatible material (the diameter of the plastic bar, which your printer “eats”) Leave the remaining parameters unchanged
This completes the basic printer setup, other 3d printer settings in the Cura program, which already relate directly to printing modes, we will consider in the next article.