High Quality Printer

5 best Epson printers

Epson printers have won the trust of buyers for a long time. Manufacturers managed to combine economical printing, high speed of work, fidelity of text and images in them. In order to better acquaint you with the printers of this brand, we decided to describe the top five of them, the rating of which has reached the highest limits.

high, quality, printer

Workforce Pro WF-M5190DW. Cost-Effective Fast Mono Printer

The black and white inkjet printer is designed for use in a small office environment. The maximum resource of the device per month is 35 thousand pages, and it can print up to 35 pages per minute.

Despite the narrow focus, this model offers several resolution options at once, including the maximum resolution of 1200×2400 dpi, typical for photo printers.


  • Availability of two-sided printing function;
  • The ability to wirelessly connect via a Wi-Fi channel;
  • Direct operation from a mobile device or laptop PC, via a USB interface;
  • Support for network high-speed connection through the RJ-45 connector;
  • Simple control with a few function keys;
  • Built-in LCD display for tracking printing steps;
  • Price. 19 thousand rubles. It cannot be called small, but for an office printer this amount is quite reasonable.


  • A display that is too small, and it is not always possible to clearly see the image or the positioning of the text;
  • Start page print time reaches 7 seconds.

Epson L810. very low cost color printer for the home

A compact 6-color inkjet printer with high quality photo and document printing capabilities for home use. Thanks to modern technologies used to create it, the cost of one A4 color print does NOT exceed 1.5 rubles.

The device is characterized by a high speed of work, reaching 37 p./min, as well as a functional control system that allows you to correct the image directly from the built-in display.


  • The ability to print Not only on paper, but also on CD / DVD discs;
  • High accuracy of images and text transmission, due to the maximum resolution of 5760×1440 dpi;
  • Built-in memory card slot;
  • Continuous type ink supply;
  • Ease of refueling. To do this, the unit with the tanks only needs to be removed from the side panel.


  • Takes over 12 seconds to print the first page
  • Expensive. On average, the price is in the range of 19-25 thousand rubles;
  • Long loading of images on the screen, which become clear seconds after 30.

Stylus Photo 1500W. Professional Wi-Fi Photo Printer

A printer that supports printing on A3 media can perceive information both through a wired connection and through a high-speed Wi-Fi module.

The device is able to recreate realistic images, thanks to a print resolution of 5760 × 1440dpi. And the quality of halftones and transitions is achieved by reducing the drop size to 1.5 pl.


  • Support for Epson iPrint technology, which allows you to print not only from stationary, but also from mobile devices: smartphones, tablets;
  • Direct printing from cameras using the PictBridge option;
  • Separate cartridges, due to which the cost of printing is reduced;
  • Availability of a program for creating and printing layouts on CDs and DVDs;
  • Additional modes for borderless printing and duplex printing.


  • Requires periodic ink reset;
  • Low print speed. The device is capable of producing NOT more than 15 pages per minute;
  • Price. 28 thousand rubles.

Workforce WF-7110DTW. Productive color printer for the office

A productive printer with high print quality, designed to work with media up to A3. It features duplex printing options and supports Wi-Fi wireless connectivity.

Using this machine, you can correct documents and any graphics without connecting to a PC. For this, an LCD display and a clear control panel are provided here.


  • Print speed reaches 32 pages per minute;
  • Support for devices with most operating systems, including iOS and Android;
  • Load per month about 20 thousand pages;
  • The ability to print from the cloud;
  • With this model, you can use cartridges of three sizes, the maximum of which is designed to print 2200 pages;
  • For printing use ink resistant to light and water.


  • Small display on which it is impossible to see fine details of the image;
  • High price. On average, it can reach 30 thousand rubles.

Expression Photo XP-55. the best photo printer for home

With a high maximum resolution of 5760×1440 dpi and a good first image print speed, this model can rightfully be called the best for printing photos at home.

A pleasant addition will be a reasonable price, an average of 13 thousand rubles. The device can print up to 32 pages per minute and can handle a variety of media that will be in the range of 64-300 g / m².


  • 6-color block with separate cartridges;
  • Printing Possible not only on paper media of various types and formats, but also on DVD / CD disks;
  • Support for direct printing via USB;
  • Network connection via high-speed RJ-45 port;
  • The ability to work with mobile devices via Wi-Fi connection.


  • Input paper tray holds only 100 sheets;
  • Low resource of the black cartridge, which lasts no more than 240 pages.

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Choosing a photo printer

  • Features:
  • Types by printing technology
  • By paper size
  • Model overview
  • How to choose?
  • How to setup?

For various business purposes, you usually have to print texts. But sometimes there is a need for printed photographs; they are even more relevant for home use. After that, it is important to know how to choose a photo printer correctly, what subtleties and nuances will need to pay special attention.


The printer has long been transformed from an “exotic curiosity” into an ordinary part of the office, and even a simple residential building. But the difference between the Separate variety of them has NOT gone anywhere. For rare printing of photographs of a purely utilitarian nature, a traditional inkjet device is also suitable. For the truly passionate, however, a dedicated photo printer is a much better choice.

Some of them can only print on Special grades of paper. There are also restrictions on the size of the print. The difference between specific versions can also be expressed in:

  • Speed of work;
  • The number of tones worked out;
  • The possibility of printing with pigment inks in gray or black;
  • The range of information carriers from which the printout is made;
  • The presence of liquid crystal screens, which allow you to view the picture, edit it, crop it;
  • Index sheet output options;
  • Network connectivity;
  • Methods of image formation.

Types by printing technology


It should be noted that this name is NOT entirely correct. It would be more correct to talk about thermal transfer photo printers. However, for marketing purposes, a more abbreviated name has been circulated. For practice, it is more important that such models now differ much less from devices with other printing principles in terms of price and quality than before. And yet photo printing enthusiasts prefer “sublimation” models.

Ink is not used in such systems. Instead, they put cartridges with a special film, more like colored cellophane. The film contains powder of 3 different colors (most often yellow, blue and purple). The head is capable of providing Strong heating, due to which the solid quickly turns into a gaseous state. Heated vapors of dyes are deposited on paper.

Sublimation printing requires the use of a special type of paper that reacts in a specific way to gaseous ink. In one pass, the system can evaporate powder of only one color, and therefore it has to print photos in three steps.

“Sublimation” printers:

  • expensive than inkjet;
  • Guarantee excellent print quality;
  • Provide excellent color reproduction;
  • Eliminate burnout and fading over time, which is typical for inkjet printing;
  • often work with small-sized media (even printing on A4 sheet will have to be very expensive).


The essence of this printing method is quite simple. To create an image, drops of an especially small size are used. A special head helps to output them onto paper or other media. An inkjet photo printer can be found at home more often than a “sublimation” machine. For its work, the piezoelectric technique is often used. Piezo crystals change their geometry when an electric current is applied to them. By varying the strength of the current, the size of the drop is also corrected. And this directly affects the colors and even individual shades. This method is very reliable. Piezoelectric inkjet printing is typical for Brother, Epson brands.

Thermal jetting is typical of Lexmark and HP products. The ink is warmed up before being ejected onto the paper, which builds up pressure on the print head. It turns out to be a kind of valve. After reaching a certain pressure, the head passes a given amount of ink onto the paper. The droplet size is no longer regulated by electrical impulses, but by the temperature of the water. The simplicity of this system is deceiving. Ink can undergo hundreds of warm-up and cool-down cycles per second, and temperatures reach 600 degrees.


Contrary to the opinion sometimes still encountered, a laser printer does NOT burn out dots on paper with a beam. The laser inside is aimed at the drum unit. This is a cylinder covered with a light-sensitive layer. When the drum unit is negatively charged, the beam leaves positively charged zones in some places. To them, according to the fundamental law of physics, negatively charged particles of toner are attracted.

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This process is referred to as “image development” by the printer. Then a special positively charged roller comes into play. Toner will naturally adhere to the paper. The next step is to warm up the paper itself to about 200 degrees using the so-called stove. This stage allows you to reliably fix the image on paper; it is not for nothing that all sheets coming out of the laser printer warm up slightly.

By paper size

It is this format that is most often used in office activities and in government agencies. It is widely used by various publishers. And it is precisely the A4 format that must be used for the preparation of various educational works, articles sent to magazines and newspapers. Finally, it’s just more convenient and familiar. After that, when choosing a printer for home, it is most appropriate to choose the A4 format.

It is more correct to choose this format of printers for the preparation of various publications and newspapers. It will be more convenient to print on it:

  • Posters;
  • Posters;
  • Tables;
  • Charts;
  • Other wall illustrative and informational materials.

The A5 and A6 formats are useful if you need to prepare photographic materials for:

  • Postcards;
  • Mail envelopes;
  • Miniature books;
  • Notebooks;
  • Notebooks.

Most often, A6 pictures are used for an ordinary family album and for photo frames. These are images, the dimensions of which are 10×15 or 9×13 cm. If the size of the photo frame is not large, you will need photos A7 (7×10) or A8 (5×7) cm. A4. these are already pictures for large photo albums. A5. a photograph the size of the cover of a standard student notebook; A3 and larger formats are really needed only by professionals or for large wall photos.

It is also useful to take into account information on the coordination of the usual options for the size of images of the printing classification. It turns out approximately like this:

  • 10×15 is A6;
  • 15×21. A5;
  • 30×30. A4;
  • 30×40 or 30×45. A3
  • 30×60. A2.

Model overview

The top photo printers for home use include the Canon PIXMA TS5040. You can also use a similar pattern in a small office. The device prints in 4 different colors in inkjet. It was equipped with an LCD display with a diagonal of 7.5 cm. Will delight users:

  • The presence of a Wi-Fi block;
  • Prints a photo in 40 seconds
  • The ability to receive prints up to A4 size;
  • Synchronization with Key social networks;
  • Front panel adjustment.

But it is worth noting the disadvantages:

  • Short service life of the plastic case;
  • Loud startup noise;
  • Rapid depletion of ink.

Brother DCP-T700W InkBenefit Plus can be considered a good alternative. Such a device is useful even for large volumes of photo printing. 6 color or 11 black and white images will be produced per minute. Wireless connection is provided. Other features:

  • 64 MB of memory;
  • Continuous supply of ink;
  • Printing in 4 primary colors;
  • Economical ink consumption;
  • Thoughtful software;
  • Easy refueling;
  • Relatively slow scanner operation;
  • Inability to work with photographic paper denser than 0.2 kg per 1 sq. M.

If you need to choose a professional photo printer, then Epson WorkForce Pro WP-4025 DW can be an excellent solution. The developers of this model have taken care of the maximum productivity, economy and quality of the programs provided. The monthly print volume can reach 20 thousand pages. The use of high-capacity cartridges is allowed. Experts note:

  • Decent photo quality;
  • Convenience and stability of connection in the wireless range;
  • Duplex printing;
  • The presence of CISS;
  • Inability to print from memory cards;
  • Noisiness.

The HP Designjet T120 610 mm also allows the use of CISS. But the main advantage of this photo printer will certainly be the combination of compactness and the ability to print in A1 format. The image can be displayed Not only on photo paper, but also on rolls, transparencies, glossy and matte paper. Advanced software provided. The output of graphs, drawings and diagrams is guaranteed in the maximum resolution, however, the glossy case gets dirty easily.

The industrial printer Epson Stylus Photo 1500W, designed for 6 colors, has a very good reputation. The device can display a 10×15 photo in about 45 seconds. A3 print mode is supported. The capacity of the tray is up to 100 sheets. Experts pay attention to:

  • Excellent wireless connection;
  • The cheapness of the printer itself;
  • Simplicity of its interface;
  • The ability to add CISS;
  • Lack of a screen;
  • High price of cartridges.

Among the photo printers, pay attention to the LG Photo PD239. Its main purpose is to accelerate the display of images from a smartphone. The designers preferred the option with three-color thermal printing. By abandoning traditional cartridges (with the introduction of ZINK technology), the system has only improved. Get one shot of typical format in 60 seconds.

It is also worth noting:

  • Full support for Bluetooth, USB 2.0;
  • Comfortable price;
  • Ease of management;
  • Ease;
  • Attractive design.

Canon Selphy CP1000 will be a good alternative to the previous model. The device uses ink of 3 different colors. Sublimation printing (thermal transfer) supported. Still image output Takes 47 seconds.

How to choose?

Choosing a good photo printer is not as easy as it sounds. Of course, manufacturers call many models unique and suitable for a wide range of tasks. However, in practice, completely unexpected problems can arise. First, you need to decide where you will use the photo printer. When using his house, even the most active and enthusiastic photographers, the conclusion, in fact, of the pictures will be only part of the overall work.

After that, almost all people will have to make a choice in favor of universal and hybrid models. “Universal” are suitable for work on plain paper, for the output of typical text documents. “Hybrids” are usually also multifunctional devices. This is a technique with high print quality, and at the same time. quite budgetary in price.

Of course, in any case, the printer resolution metric cannot be ignored. The higher it is, the better the image will be, other things being equal. It is also very important that the printer works with cheap consumables. If this condition is NOT met, then even an inexpensive device itself can hit your hard. And in full measure all such requirements apply to photo printers purchased for small photo studios.

This is a device category that should only print photos. Conclusion on paper of something else. only in exceptional cases. A mandatory requirement is to support at least 6 working colors. The most commonly used palette is the CcMmYK type. Of course, the PictBridge function is also useful; it will allow you to display images directly, bypassing the computer and without losing the specific settings set on the camera.

For a purely Photographic printer, print formats are especially important. It is highly desirable to support the output of A3 or A3 images. It is also desirable to have access to various media. A pleasant addition will be the use of trays, which are designed to print on CDs or small photo paper. You can find a model that meets these requirements in the assortment of almost any manufacturer, but the best are still Epson Artisan 1430 and Epson Stylus Photo 1500W.

Choosing a professional-grade photo printer, you need to immediately discard all devices that are unable to work with at least 8 colors. And it’s better to focus on where there are at least 9 colors. This will allow you to create very decent high-end prints or materials for advertising, marketing, design. Helpful Note the minimum and maximum weight of the paper you are using.

How to setup?

Getting your photo printer ready is NOT too complicated. First of all, you should evaluate the photographic materials themselves, and, if necessary, adjust their parameters using publicly available programs. Next, choose the option to print on matte or glossy photo paper. The first guarantees increased image contrast for subsequent lamination or insertion into a frame. The second is more commonly used by professional photographers.

In the print settings, you will need to set:

  • Size of pictures;
  • Their number;
  • Desired picture quality;
  • The printer to which the job will be sent.

For full-fledged print settings, you can use the free editor “Home Photo Studio”. It first selects the printer. Then they sequentially appoint:

  • The size of the photo paper;
  • Orientation when printing;
  • Size of fields.

How to choose the right photo printer for your home, see the next video.

Chimera. high quality 3D printer. part 2

Author: SaorY
Date of recording

Greetings to all the brainchildren again! And I propose a continuation of the brain guide in creating a simple and inexpensive top-down 3D printer with your own hands.


The DIY printer frame is in two parts, the first, which I call the Z-frame, has the Z axis and platform mounted, and the resin container is mounted here. The second one serves as a support for the projector, and allows you to move the Z-frame up and down, thereby adjusting the focus of the projector for various containers.

Behold, platform and container
I love developing designs on the go, so I turned my attention to the most versatile mock-up material. Lego. Yes, technically it is a toy, but I have not found more suitable materials that allow you to quickly design, make changes or dismantle, as you can with Lego. So, the requirements for the Z-frame are as follows:

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For fixing the Z axis I used the solution I found when creating another craft and which worked great in chimera too. It has already been said that LegoTechnic bushings fit perfectly into the holes of the plastic / rubber grommets of the laser deck, so to attach the deck you only had to assemble a wall with four bushings mounted in the right places.

The vertical wall size is easily adjusted by the number of layers of whole and flat Lego blocks, but the distance between the mounting holes of most decks does NOT match the standard block sizes. This is solved by free installation of bushings in the wall, which allows them to move in the interblock space.

So that you are in the know I will note that when any resin gets on Lego blocks, a process similar to the interaction of gallium with aluminum begins, in fact, the blocks begin to decompose. So if you do not mind that some lego blocks can get spoiled, then continue to collect the frame from them, I was not sad about this face. Otherwise, the frame can be made of wood, and I plan to do so as soon as I decide on the final dimensions of the frame.

Support frame
Here is a support frame all that is required is to hold the projector and have space to mount the Z-frame below the projection area. You can use lego blocks for it, but I noticed that tightly connected blocks are not quite suitable for large and stable structures. Therefore, I drew attention to another “toy” with which you can create large, lightweight and stable structures, and having, like Lego, design variability, namely K’NEX.

Some time ago I was in the K’NEX community and even created several homemade products, ranging from # Knex-Magpul-FMG-9-Foldable-Machine-Gun / “complex machine gun to # Knex-Heavy-Cannon /” 5-foot cannon. There I learned about the amazing strength and versatility of K’NEX, and I also accumulated over 45kg of THESE “toys”. By the way, this is an excellent tool for visual teaching the physics of large structures and creating dimensional structures that can withstand a large amount of forces applied to them.

The base frame made of K’NEX is simple in design, it is just a base with two posts and an adjustable platform compatible with containers of various sizes until I find a container suitable for permanent use.

Wooden frames
As promised, for those who are NOT the brain-owner of Lego or K “NEX, I designed a frame that can be made entirely of wood. I cut it out of the remains of chipboard letters measuring 29x71x1.2cm, using just a circular saw and a drill. Files that can be used to create a wood frame.


The big plus of top-down printers is the simplicity of the electronics. Instead of the expensive Arduino MEGA and RAMPs, which many home-made 3D printers use for control, you can use cheap Arduino UNOs here, since you only need to control the Z axis, and, if you wish, turn it on. For the microcontroller, I etched a board that I designed in Cadsoft EAGLE. If this is difficult for you, then do not be afraid, the circuit is simple, assemble it on a breadboard. Or you can put a little more effort: program the ATmega328P chip and etch a single board, the attached file will help you with this.

Shield compounds
– Easydriver. driver connection, which controls the operation of the stepper motor. This driver was chosen because the drive motor operates on 5V and only Easydriver can supply them. Other, more miniature and more “popular” drivers require at least 8.2V only for switching on, and this voltage will lead to overheating of low-voltage motors.
– Zmotor is a laser deck stepper motor connection.
– Upper and lower limits (optional). it’s not necessary to use, I have NOT configured GRBL for limits yet, but they are available and you can use them if you wish.
– Iris (experimental) is a solenoid connection that opens / closes a mechanical diaphragm, more on this in the update.
– Power terminals or Power terminals (optional). makes it possible to connect a non-wall power supply.

Shield has 1/8 microstepping included for high precision movement.

Arduino firmware

By GRBL 0.9i I tried several different firmwares for Arduino UNO, and I will tell you that GRBL is the best option for high quality printing, it is compatible, easy to use and easy to configure. To “teach” the microcontroller of your printer to print, you need to load the brainGoProgram on it and configure GRBL to the parameters of your 3D printer. To do this, download the attached archive to the computer, unpack it, and connect the Arduino to the computer.

Download firmware
The GRBL firmware file is presented in the.Hex format, which is not supported by the Arduino software, so you need to use the xloader program to download it to the microcontroller.
1. Open the unpacked files, go to the xloader folder and run the xloader.Exe file.
2. Press the “browse” button and select the unpacked file “.

Grbl_v0_9i_atmega328p_16mhz_115200_for_so2.Hex “.
3. In the “device” field, select “Uno (ATmega328)”.
4. Select the desired COM port.
5. We set the baud rate 115200.
6. Click “upload”.
7. After you see the message “28690s byte uploaded” you can proceed to configuring GRBL.

GRBL setup
1. We make available the serial terminal and for this I will use the GRBL controller.
2. Select the desired COM port.
3. Set the baud rate 115200.
4. Open the serial terminal in the upper right corner.
5. Several lines of code should appear, at the top it should display “Grbl 0.9i [‘for help]”.
6. Now all that needs to be changed is “steps per mm” for the Z axis. On the top command line, enter “102 = 53.333″. This will set the number of steps per mm to 53.333, this is the value for the feed screws ” normal “type. I had one, with 157 steps per mm, and this I figured out through trial and error.

After all THESE actions, the microcontroller is ready to control the printer.


Of the many open source programs I’ve reviewed, only the Creation Workshop from envision labs came close to my compatibility and customization requirements. The attached archive contains this software and the file with the settings that I used, but for your own DIY you may have to change them. So, you need to unpack the archive on your computer, open CreationWorkshop.Exe and then follow the instructions.

Profile selection. to create a new profile, press the plus button and designate it, for example, Chimera.
2. Build Size. we designate the X and Y dimensions of the projected area, while measuring them as accurately as possible, but it is possible also roughly, since they can be adjusted more accurately after the first test. Please note that these are NOT platform dimensions, but total projection area dimensions.
3. COM port. Connect the Arduino, click “configure / settings” and select the desired COM port to which the microcontroller is connected, while the set baud rate should be 115200.

Machine controls. at this point we set what functions the printer will use, since only Z is needed, then we only set the Corresponding checkbox.
5. Displays. the connection between the projector and the computer is set here, most computers / laptops have video outputs, my xd221 projector and laptop have a VGA connection, that’s what I used. If your computer does not have the duel monitors option, you will have to use the main monitor, which will make the task much more difficult. Press the second display (second monitor), then press the “plus” button to use the second monitor (that is, the projector) to display the printed object.
6. Configured displays. designate the monitor that will be used for printing.
7. Apply changes. check the correctness of the settings and, if everything is set correctly, saving them.

Profile settings by layers
1. Profile selection. press the plus button to create a new profile and designate it, again for example, Chimera.
2. Settings
– Slice thickness. this parameter sets the thickness, otherwise the height of the layer, for a start, 1mm is suitable.
– Exposure time (exposure / display time) is the value of the duration of the projection of one layer, the longer it is, the harder the layer will be, but also the more this layer will be compressed. All objects shown in the photo are printed with a value of 10 seconds (10000 milliseconds), but I think with this parameter you can overexpose the resin. You need to choose this value yourself for your DIY printer.
– Bottom exposure. value for several initial layers, selected so that the object is firmly fixed on the platform and held during the entire printing process. I doubled the time per layer to 20 seconds (20,000 milliseconds).
– #bottom layers. shows the number of initial layers that will be exposed to the increased exposure. It is selected individually for each printer, my objects are normally kept on the 3 bottom layers.
– Enable anti-aliasing. activating this option can help if straight lines are printed with uneven edges, but this should not be a problem.
3. Lift and sequence
– Z lift distance. Sets the distance the Z is dropped so that the resin will cover the printed layer. For large objects and resin with high viscosity this distance needs to be increased, but for small objects such as mine, 3mm is appropriate.
– z speeds (speed of the Z axis). if you do not need to quickly print an object, or do not want the force of the flow of resin to damage small parts or thin walls, then set this parameter to less than 75mm per second. Slowly, but better safe than sorry.
4. Auto Calc (automatic calculation). calculates the estimated time it takes the printer to lower the platform by one layer. The parameter is important, since this is the time that the program waits before starting to project a new layer.

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Build Direction. VERY important parameter. be sure to check that the printer type is set to “top-down”, if it is set to business words, then the printer will naturally not work.
6. Apply changes. check the correctness of the specified parameters and save.

I highly recommend using a second computer for printing, the fact is that if you are typing and at the same time doing something else on the computer, for example, “surfing” the Internet, then there is a high probability of problems, such as:

Pop-up windows. they can cause serious printing failures, Do not forget that the projector is connected as a second monitor, so any pop-up window can be displayed on the second monitor, that is, the projector, which in turn projects a completely white screen and heats the entire top layer resin, and the object will be lost, because it is very difficult to remove excess material.
2. Slow down / freeze. if the computer is running slowly, or even freezes due to excessive load on the processor or video card, then the printer software may freeze on the action or skip it completely, which will lead to unsuccessful printing of the object.

Therefore, in order to avoid the above, and other problems, it is recommended NOT to touch the computer during the printing process.!

Calibration and Printing

To obtain objects with high print quality, you need to calibrate the printer, namely, set the projector to the optimal focal length from the working platform, and check the correctness of the specified X and Y dimensions. And of course, make sure that the homemade printer is connected to the computer and a power source.

Focusing the projector
1. Connect the projector and check that it is set as a second computer monitor.
2. Open the Attached file with the calibration grid and output it to the second monitor, so that the grid is projected on the working platform.
3. Turn the focus wheel to maximum, but so that the lens does NOT fall out and the grid on the platform is visible. WARNING: Be careful to look at the platform from an angle as the light from the projector is very bright and can damage your eyes if reflected light is directly exposed. Normal viewing angle within 0-30 ° from platform, larger viewing angle is closer to dangerous.
4. On the K’NEX frame, I built a movable platform for installing the Z-frame, and this made the setup process easier. But no matter how the support frame is built, for better focus adjustment, the distance between the platform and the projector should be adjustable.
5. Having set the focal length acceptable in your opinion, open CreationWorkshop and go to the “control” tab. Using the buttons, slowly move the platform up / down, while observing the configuration of the grid lines, until you find the “golden mean”. the point with the maximum effect. We mark this place, this is where the printing of your objects will begin.
6. NOTE: If the platform moves in the direction opposite to the direction of the command, then you must turn off the homemade product, disconnect the microcontroller from the computer, disconnect the cable supplying the motor and return it 180 °, that is, change the polarity, then perform the actions in the reverse order and will restart the printer. After THESE manipulations, everything should function correctly.
7. Focus has been calibrated, you can close the grid image.

Calibrating Printing
At this stage, congratulations to yourself, the printer is ready to work, but for accurate printing you need to calibrate the X and Y dimensions.

Loading the calibration cube
1. Using the “control” tab in CreationWorkshop, move the working platform to the position of the previously found “golden” focus and make sure that the platform can lower at least 15mm from this position.
2. Open the “3D View / 3D View” tab, in the upper left corner, click “folder” to open the desired file, and select the attached file 10mm calibration cube.
3. At the top, press the “slice” button.
4. In the pop-up window, select the previously created delamination profile (Named Chimera) and click “slice”.
5. After the layering is over, go to the “slice View / view layers” tab, where a black screen with a white box on it should appear.
6. In the lower left corner, press the button “view slice on device display”, and the current layer of the projector will be displayed.
7. Check the location of the object, it most likely will not be located in the center of the platform, but this is normal.
8. Return to the “3D view” tab, open the moving panel and move the object using the “” and “-” buttons to the planned location, then press “slice” again.
9. Repeat points 5-8 until the projected object is not located in the center of the working platform and remember this position on the 3D viewing tab, in the future it will be in this place that the printed brain objects will need to be placed.

1. Fill the container with resin until its level is NOT flush with the upper surface of the platform.
2. Using the “control” tab, move the platform 10mm down and then again 10mm up, this will provide a thin layer of resin for the first printed layer.
3. Press the play / start button to start printing. This process will take about 20-30 minutes (with my settings 28 minutes).
4. NOTE: when printing a cube try to keep track of which side of the cube is the X axis and which is the Y axis.
5. Once the printing process is complete, there are two ways to safely clean the platform. First, if the platform is removable, remove it and fill it with pure isopropyl alcohol (IPA or rubbing alcohol) over the printed object to rinse off any residues of non-hardened resin. And the second, which is not recommended, but possible, if the platform is difficult or NOT at all to be removed, then use a razor blade or a thin sharp knife to separate the object from the platform, while DO NOT touch it with your fingers, as it is not very good to get your hands dirty with resin. The object is slippery, so please wear vinyl gloves and use a tissue paper to draw your index fingers and thumb to firmly grip the printed object. After that, rinse the object with isopropyl alcohol.
6. Do not soak the object in isopropyl alcohol, otherwise it will turn white or deteriorate!
7. Gently blot the object and let it dry for a few minutes.

Subsequent hardening
After the object has dried, something must be done to post-cure it, that is, to completely cure the resin. There are several suitable ways:

The easiest is to just leave the object in the sun for 10-60 minutes, depending on the brightness of the sun and the size of the object. But it is so difficult to regulate the hardening process and get the desired strength, and some home-made people report that from this method the object acquires a yellowish tint (I think it’s like the fading of a newspaper lying in the sunlight).
2.Using UV light from UV lamps or LED UV lights is a great option. This will make it much easier to control the hardening time and its intensity.
3. How I proceed: I have a 5mW 405nm UV laser pointer, which I use to “scan” the printed object. NOT the easiest way, but this Until I do a UV lightbox, which will be the best option.
4. So, the best option is a lightbox with UV radiation, which is a box with an internal reflective coating made of aluminum foil and source of ultraviolet radiation, most often UV-LED. This lightbox creates excellent illumination and allows precise control of time.

X and Y Axis Calibration
After you have printed out the calibration cube, it may turn out that it is not quite the correct shape, and not square, this is normal and easy to adjust.

Using a vernier caliper Measure the cube in the X and Y axes, you can use a ruler, but measurement accuracy will suffer. The dimensions of my cube are Y. 9.94mm, X. 9mm, This is not necessary 10x10mm, therefore parameters adjustment is required.
2. Back to the “configure machine / printer settings” item in the Creation workshop.
3. Click “adjust” in the Build Size settings.
4. In “model size” change 2 to 10 for both X and Y sizes. Changing the “measured size” to something that matches your measurements.
5. Press the “Ok” button.
6. The program has thus rebuilt the X and Y dimensions of your projection area.
7. Repeat the printing process again, let the object harden and measure it. This time the dimensions should be closer to the desired ones, my cube was 10.05×10.02mm, which satisfied me.
8. If the dimensions of the new cube are far from the required ones or you need perfect accuracy, then you can repeat the calibration process with the new cube parameters.

The brain printer is assembled, congratulations! Enjoy the results and hope you enjoyed this brain guide.