How to make a 3D printer at home

EN KOLAY 3D YAZICININ KENDİ ELLERİ. ÇİZİMLER

Günümüzün gençleri, termoplastiklerden veya diğer malzemelerden katman katman baskı kullanan ve hemen hemen her şeklin çeşitli parçalarını yeniden üretebilen prototipleme cihazlarıüü (esasen küçük CNC Xihazlarıü (esasen küçük CNC).

Elbette en geniş fırsatlara sahipler! Hem endüstriyel hem de evsel kullanımda.

Çalışabilir bir arabayı monte etmek için bileşenlerden çikolatadan yapılmış kendi kafanıza kadar her şeyi yazdırabilirsiniz. Modelciler, DIYers ve DIYers uygulamalarında ihtiyaç duyulan her türlü ayrıntıdan bahsetmeye bile gerek yok.

Ama onlar için bu “oyuncaklar” ve sarf malzemeleri, en ilkel olanlar bile çok pahalıdır. Ayrıca bir biLGisayara, uygun yazılıma ihtiyaçları var ve bunların hepsini kullanabilme becerisi de önemli bir nokta. Kısacası, henüz herkesin modern teknolojilere erişimi yok.

Bu arada, kafayı çevirirseniz, plastikten tekrarlarsanız veya hatta her türlü “küçük şeyin” üretimini yayınlarsanız. o kadar da zor değil. En azından mobilya aksesuarlarını veya bunun gibi bir şeyi çoğaltmak, stand modellerinin dişlileri ve tasarım öğeleri kesinlikle işe yarayacaktır. Bir şekil yapmak yeterlidir ve herhangi bir ürün istediğiniz kadar tekrar edilebilir. Bu amaçla küçük bir vakumlu döküm tesisi kurduk. Öğelerine daha yakından bakalım.

Basın.

Bir hidrolik krikoya dayanmaktadır. 12 tona kadar kuvvet, 150 mm piston stroku ve 80 mm yardımcı vida çıkışı geliştiren güçlü ve güvenilir bir mekanizmadır. Kriko, 20 mm kalınlığında çelik bir taban plakasına takılır ve iki M12 cıvata ile sabitlenir. Döşemenin köşelerinde, direkler için dört delik açtık ve M16 dişlerine diş açtık. Raflara ayırıcı tüpler yerleştirildi: üst plaka, somunlar ve kilit somunları ile sabitlenmiş üzerlerine yerleştirildi.

Liteika.

Tabanı olan içi boş bir silindir ve şırınga deliği olan sıkıca oturtulmuş, taşlanmış bir pistondan oluşur. Plakada ön ısıtma yapıldıktan sonra pistonun kolayca çıkarılabileceği silindirin içine plastik yerleştirilir.

Pistona yerleştirildikten sonra, silindir içeriği yavaş yavaş ısınmalı ve 40-45 dakika içinde gerekli sıcaklığa ulaşmalıdır. Piston başlığındaki şırınga deliğinden erimiş kütlenin kendi kendine ekstrüzyonu, ısıtmanın hazır olup olmadığının ve bitmesinin bir kontrol işareti olarak işlev görür. Şimdi, kalıbın döküm deliğinin ve pistonun şırınga deliğinin eşleştiğinden emin olarak parçayı dökmek için üzerine bir kalıp takabilirsiniz.

Hazırlık işlemlerini bitirdikten sonra doğrudan döküm işlemine geçiyoruz. Bunun için, tüm blok plakada durana kadar kriko kolu tarafından kademeli olarak yukarı hareket ettirilir. Bu durumda, piston silindire bastırmaya başlar. Basınç altındaki erimiş bileşim şırınga deliğine geçer ve ardından enjeksiyon deliğinden kalıba girer ve onu doldurur.

Plastiğin kalıba yapışmasını önlemek için, iç yüzeyi kalın sabunlu bir solüsyonla yağlanmalı ve kurutulmalıdır.

Şu soru ortaya çıkabilir: neden bizim enstalasyonumuz ayrı parçalardan oluşuyor ve tek bir “monolit” halinde birleştirilmiyor?

Bu, katlanabilir versiyonun teknolojik rahatlığı ve avantajları ile belirlenir. Çeşitli plastiklerden parçaların imalatında, değiştirilebilir silindirleri hızlı bir şekilde değiştirmek mümkündür. Fırın ayrı olarak kullanılabilir ve kriko aynı zamanda genel amaçlı bir pres görevi görür.

Eritme fırını “.

Rolü, ev yapımı bir elektrikli soba tarafından oynanır. kapaklı kalın bir tabakta, öğütülmüş bir yuvada, porselen yalıtımlı 1000 W elektrikli demirden bir spiral döşenir. Asbest levha ısı yalıtımlı bir kutu palet üzerine, krikonun topuk kısmına monte edilir. Üstelik, asıl enjeksiyon parçasını oluşturan bir parça bloğu var.

EN KOLAY 3D YAZICI OLARAK DÖKÜM-VAKUM TESİSİ. ÇİZİMLER

make, printer, home

Bir kriko kullanarak pres yapımı:

16 mm bağlantı çubuğu; 5. üst plaka (240x240x40 mm); 6.kriko kolu

Enjeksiyon kalıplama makinesi montajı:
1.kriko vidası; 2. krikonun topuğu: 3. üst baskı plakası; 4.form; 5. piston; 6.silindir; 7. fayans; 8.asbest contalı palet

Elektrikli soba tasarımı:

1. taban plakası; 2. fiş; 3.4. kapaklar; 5.spiral

Purchase of the necessary parts and tools

In the process of assembling a 3D printer, you need the necessary components:

This video provides an overview of the components for a homemade 3D printer:

Assembly of the electronic part

To connect the electronics, you need a standard circuit, it will be attached in the instruction manual for the software. Arduino IDE. Then the settings are carried out depending on the capabilities of the device.

The peculiarity of assembling a 3D printer with your own hands is that a “brain” must function in this type of electronics. This part is the Arduino 2560 R3. The firmware will be uploaded to this particular element. It is easy to burn it due to incorrect polarity connection, connecting ends or stepper motor installation. For this, it is important that a person with experience in this area is engaged in the assembly.

Downloading and installing software

Installing the software is just as important as the previous processes. Stepper drivers are responsible for the operation of the motors. They have a tuning resistor that is set to the required current and does not need to be wound. It is better to use the Arduino MEGA R3 as a spare board. A buck regulator is needed to protect the voltage of the board. For example, the downgrade takes place from 12 to 5 watts. The electronics used in assembling a 3D printer with your own hands are very moody and often fail.

A rather complex printer mechanism needs software. It is necessary to carry out preparatory work. This requires the official firmware from 3D — diy. The loading of the program is carried out by the Arduino IDE 1.0.6. The display shows the Auto Home button, which should be pressed after.

Cura Software is used for flexible and accurate print settings. It allows you to adjust the degree of filling the object and other print parameters:

  • nozzle diameter;
  • melting point of plastic;
  • layer thickness.
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All of these parameters affect print quality and result. The Marlin project is at the heart of the firmware and is publicly available to users. The firmware is common and suitable for different devices, and the settings are made in different ways. Adjustments are made depending on the features of the 3D printer.

Testing and setting up a 3D printer

It is important to make sure that the limit switches and the polarity for the steps are correct. If the carriage moves in the opposite direction from the desired one, it is necessary to turn the terminal 180 degrees. If after all the procedures performed correctly, an unpleasant whistle remains, then it is possible that the matter is in the shagoviks. To do this, adjust the trimmer resistors.

The first test print will take at least 50 minutes. The next step will be to diagnose the problems of the test part in comparison with other results from identical models. Thus, it will be possible to determine what the printing problem is related to. For example, this is due to an incorrect computer configuration or technical specifications.

How to assemble and make a 3D printer with your own hands

There are many varieties of homemade 3D printers. Some form figures from plaster, others print parts with a head in layers. There are options for shaping objects with a laser or polymer. These models are difficult to assemble and expensive. Yes, and items made using these technologies are fragile in order to be used as spare parts for any device.

To assemble a 3D printer with your own hands, you will need a set of the following tools and skills:

  • soldering iron;
  • screwdriwer set;
  • hexagons;
  • assembly instructions;
  • knowledge in electronics and engineering.

Following simple rules, a person with the above tools and knowledge will be able to assemble the device in a short time.

Useful Tips

For proper assembly, it is important to follow the instructions for use and advice from experienced craftsmen, which have been identified through trial and error:

  • In assembling 3D printers with their own hands, they do not use bearings of the 625z type, which are responsible for fastening the end supports.
  • Lead screws help to eliminate oscillation at high speed of the working head.
  • When assembling the carriage, a black steel spacer is used, but it is not included with the frame. Plastic sleeves are being replaced, which are suitable for these purposes.
  • The mounting of the limit switch mounts should take place to the front wall. In case of an error, the models will be printed in a mirror image. The new firmware won’t fix the problem. The only way out is to re-solder the terminal.
  • When connecting the parts of the RAMPS and Arduino, do not forget about the uninterrupted operation of the printer. To do this, the arduino is disconnected from the power supply from the RAMPS board. The diode responsible for this function is soldered or cut off. The regulator is soldered at the power input and set at 5 W.

Quite recently, few people thought about assembling a 3D printer with their own hands. At this time, this topic is very much in demand. Experts have learned how to make parts for the apparatus on their own. The advantage of home-made models in comparison with factory ones lies in the price and better quality. The biggest difference can be seen in Chinese devices.

Printing

The first seal is considered the most important, since the quality of connection, assembly and connection of contacts with your own hands depends on its indicators. Recommended to print the first PLA models. You can also use any kind of flexible rod. This is the simplest model for assembly, maintenance and repair. It has a high quality in comparison with other products. Due to its prevalence on this material, you can find a lot of information that answers your questions.

In the printing apparatus, you can install 2 extruders at once or one with two heads. After the calibration process, it is necessary to print a 1x1x1 cm sample. If the layers have moved a lot, then there is a problem of overheating of the motors. For the solution, A4988 motors with a microstep of 1/16 are used, the amperage is adjusted at the lowest position. In order to achieve better quality, carry out the printer firmware.

This video shows the first start-up of a homemade 3D printer:

“ಕುಲುಮೆ” ಕರಗುವುದು.

ಇದರ ಪಾತ್ರವನ್ನು ಮನೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ತಯಾರಿಸಿದ ವಿದ್ಯುತ್ ಒಲೆ ವಹಿಸುತ್ತದೆ. ಒಂದು ಮುಚ್ಚಳವನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿರುವ ದಪ್ಪ ತಟ್ಟೆಯಲ್ಲಿ, ಅರೆಯುವ ಗೂಡಿನಲ್ಲಿ, ಪಿಂಗಾಣಿ ನಿರೋಧನದಲ್ಲಿ 1000 W ವಿದ್ಯುತ್ ಕಬ್ಬಿಣದಿಂದ ಸುರುಳಿಯನ್ನು ಹಾಕಲಾಗುತ್ತದೆ. ಕಲ್ನಾರಿನ ಹಾಳೆಯ ಉಷ್ಣ ನಿರೋಧನದೊಂದಿಗೆ ಬಾಕ್ಸ್ ಪ್ಯಾಲೆಟ್ನಲ್ಲಿ, ಅದನ್ನು ಜ್ಯಾಕ್ನ ಹಿಮ್ಮಡಿಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಜೋಡಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಮತ್ತು ಅದರ ಮೇಲೆ ನಿಜವಾದ ಇಂಜೆಕ್ಷನ್ ಭಾಗವನ್ನು ರೂಪಿಸುವ ಭಾಗಗಳ ಒಂದು ಬ್ಲಾಕ್ ಇದೆ.

ಒತ್ತಿ.

ಇದು ಹೈಡ್ರಾಲಿಕ್ ಜ್ಯಾಕ್ ಅನ್ನು ಆಧರಿಸಿದೆ. ಇದು 12 ಟಿ ವರೆಗಿನ ಶಕ್ತಿ, 150 ಎಂಎಂ ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್ ಸ್ಟ್ರೋಕ್ ಮತ್ತು 80 ಎಂಎಂ ಆಕ್ಸಿಲರಿ ಸ್ಕ್ರೂ let ಟ್ಲೆಟ್ ಅನ್ನು ಅಭಿವೃದ್ಧಿಪಡಿಸುವ ಪ್ರಬಲ ಮತ್ತು ವಿಶ್ವಾಸಾರ್ಹ ಕಾರ್ಯವಿಧಾನವಾಗಿದೆ. ಜ್ಯಾಕ್ ಅನ್ನು 20 ಎಂಎಂ ದಪ್ಪವಿರುವ ಸ್ಟೀಲ್ ಬೇಸ್ ಪ್ಲೇಟ್‌ನಲ್ಲಿ ಸ್ಥಾಪಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ ಮತ್ತು ಎರಡು ಎಂ 12 ಬೋಲ್ಟ್ಗಳೊಂದಿಗೆ ನಿವಾರಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಚಪ್ಪಡಿಯ ಮೂಲೆಗಳಲ್ಲಿ, ನಾವು ಪೋಸ್ಟ್‌ಗಳಿಗಾಗಿ ನಾಲ್ಕು ರಂಧ್ರಗಳನ್ನು ಕೊರೆದು M16 ಎಳೆಗಳನ್ನು ಟ್ಯಾಪ್ ಮಾಡಿದ್ದೇವೆ. ಸ್ಪೇಸರ್ ಟ್ಯೂಬ್‌ಗಳನ್ನು ಚರಣಿಗೆಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ಹಾಕಲಾಯಿತು: ಮೇಲಿನ ಪ್ಲೇಟ್ ಅವುಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ಇತ್ತು, ಅದನ್ನು ಬೀಜಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಲಾಕ್‌ನಟ್‌ಗಳಿಂದ ಸರಿಪಡಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ.

ಲಿಟಿಕಾ.

ಇದು ಟೊಳ್ಳಾದ ಸಿಲಿಂಡರ್ ಅನ್ನು ಕೆಳಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ಮತ್ತು ಬಿಗಿಯಾಗಿ ಅಳವಡಿಸಲಾಗಿರುವ, ಸಿರಿಂಜ್ ರಂಧ್ರವನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿರುವ ನೆಲದ ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್ ಅನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಪ್ಲಾಸ್ಟಿಕ್ ಅನ್ನು ಸಿಲಿಂಡರ್ನಲ್ಲಿ ಇರಿಸಲಾಗುತ್ತದೆ, ಇದರಿಂದ ಪ್ಲೇಟ್ನಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರಾಥಮಿಕ ತಾಪನದ ನಂತರ ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್ ಅನ್ನು ಸುಲಭವಾಗಿ ತೆಗೆಯಬಹುದು.

ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್ಗೆ ಸೇರಿಸಿದ ನಂತರ, ಸಿಲಿಂಡರ್ನ ವಿಷಯಗಳು ನಿಧಾನವಾಗಿ ಬೆಚ್ಚಗಾಗಬೇಕು, ಅಗತ್ಯವಾದ ತಾಪಮಾನವನ್ನು 40-45 ನಿಮಿಷಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ತಲುಪುತ್ತದೆ. ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್ ತಲೆಯಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಸಿರಿಂಜ್ ರಂಧ್ರದ ಮೂಲಕ ಕರಗಿದ ದ್ರವ್ಯರಾಶಿಯ ಸ್ವಯಂ-ಹೊರತೆಗೆಯುವಿಕೆ ಸಿದ್ಧತೆ ಮತ್ತು ತಾಪನದ ಪೂರ್ಣಗೊಳಿಸುವಿಕೆಯ ನಿಯಂತ್ರಣ ಚಿಹ್ನೆಯಾಗಿ ಕಾರ್ಯನಿರ್ವಹಿಸುತ್ತದೆ. ಭಾಗವನ್ನು ಬಿತ್ತರಿಸಲು ಈಗ ನೀವು ಅದರ ಮೇಲೆ ಅಚ್ಚನ್ನು ಸ್ಥಾಪಿಸಬಹುದು, ಅಚ್ಚಿನ ಎರಕದ ರಂಧ್ರ ಮತ್ತು ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್‌ನ ಸಿರಿಂಜ್ ರಂಧ್ರವು ಸೇರಿಕೊಳ್ಳುತ್ತದೆ ಎಂದು ಖಚಿತಪಡಿಸಿಕೊಳ್ಳಿ.

ಪೂರ್ವಸಿದ್ಧತಾ ಕಾರ್ಯಾಚರಣೆಗಳನ್ನು ಮುಗಿಸಿದ ನಂತರ, ನಾವು ನೇರವಾಗಿ ಬಿತ್ತರಿಸುವಿಕೆಗೆ ಮುಂದುವರಿಯುತ್ತೇವೆ. ಇದನ್ನು ಮಾಡಲು, ಜ್ಯಾಕ್‌ನ ಲಿವರ್ ಕ್ರಮೇಣ ಇಡೀ ಬ್ಲಾಕ್ ಅನ್ನು ಮೇಲಕ್ಕೆ ಚಲಿಸುತ್ತದೆ, ಅದು ಪ್ಲೇಟ್‌ನಲ್ಲಿ ನಿಲ್ಲುವವರೆಗೆ. ಈ ಸಂದರ್ಭದಲ್ಲಿ, ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್ ಸಿಲಿಂಡರ್ಗೆ ಒತ್ತುವಂತೆ ಪ್ರಾರಂಭಿಸುತ್ತದೆ. ಒತ್ತಡದಲ್ಲಿ ಕರಗಿದ ಸಂಯೋಜನೆಯು ಸಿರಿಂಜ್ ರಂಧ್ರಕ್ಕೆ ಹಾದುಹೋಗುತ್ತದೆ, ಮತ್ತು ನಂತರ ಇಂಜೆಕ್ಷನ್ ರಂಧ್ರದ ಮೂಲಕ ಅಚ್ಚನ್ನು ಪ್ರವೇಶಿಸಿ ಅದನ್ನು ತುಂಬುತ್ತದೆ.

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ಪ್ಲಾಸ್ಟಿಕ್ ಅಚ್ಚಿಗೆ ಅಂಟಿಕೊಳ್ಳದಂತೆ ತಡೆಯಲು, ಅದರ ಒಳಗಿನ ಮೇಲ್ಮೈಯನ್ನು ದಪ್ಪವಾದ ಸಾಬೂನು ದ್ರಾವಣದಿಂದ ಗ್ರೀಸ್ ಮಾಡಿ ಒಣಗಿಸಬೇಕು.

ಸಹಜವಾಗಿ, ಭಾಗಗಳನ್ನು ತಯಾರಿಸುವ ಈ ವಿಧಾನವು ಸಹ ಉಚಿತವಲ್ಲ, ಉಪಕರಣ ಮತ್ತು ನೆಲೆವಸ್ತುಗಳೆರಡಕ್ಕೂ ಹೆಚ್ಚುವರಿ ವೆಚ್ಚಗಳು ಬೇಕಾಗುತ್ತವೆ. ಆದಾಗ್ಯೂ, ಪಡೆದ ಉತ್ಪನ್ನಗಳ ಗುಣಮಟ್ಟ ಮತ್ತು ಅವುಗಳನ್ನು ಸರಣಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಉತ್ಪಾದಿಸುವ ಸಾಮರ್ಥ್ಯದಿಂದ ಸರಿದೂಗಿಸಲಾಗುತ್ತದೆ.

ಪ್ರಶ್ನೆ ಉದ್ಭವಿಸಬಹುದು: ನಮ್ಮ ಸ್ಥಾಪನೆಯು ಪ್ರತ್ಯೇಕ ಭಾಗಗಳನ್ನು ಏಕೆ ಒಳಗೊಂಡಿದೆ, ಮತ್ತು ಒಂದೇ “ಏಕಶಿಲೆ” ಗೆ ಸಂಯೋಜಿಸಲಾಗಿಲ್ಲ?

ಬಾಗಿಕೊಳ್ಳಬಹುದಾದ ಆವೃತ್ತಿಯ ತಾಂತ್ರಿಕ ಅನುಕೂಲತೆ ಮತ್ತು ಅನುಕೂಲಗಳಿಂದ ಇದನ್ನು ನಿರ್ದೇಶಿಸಲಾಗುತ್ತದೆ. ವಿವಿಧ ಪ್ಲಾಸ್ಟಿಕ್‌ಗಳಿಂದ ಭಾಗಗಳ ತಯಾರಿಕೆಯಲ್ಲಿ, ಬದಲಾಯಿಸಬಹುದಾದ ಸಿಲಿಂಡರ್‌ಗಳನ್ನು ತ್ವರಿತವಾಗಿ ಬದಲಾಯಿಸಲು ಸಾಧ್ಯವಿದೆ. ಒಲೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರತ್ಯೇಕವಾಗಿ ಬಳಸಬಹುದು, ಮತ್ತು ಜ್ಯಾಕ್ ಸಾಮಾನ್ಯ ಉದ್ದೇಶದ ಮುದ್ರಣಾಲಯವಾಗಿಯೂ ಕಾರ್ಯನಿರ್ವಹಿಸುತ್ತದೆ.

ನಿಮ್ಮ ಸ್ವಂತ ಕೈಗಳನ್ನು ಸುಲಭವಾದ 3D ಮುದ್ರಕ. ರೇಖಾಚಿತ್ರಗಳು

ಇಂದಿನ ಯುವಜನರು XNUMX ಡಿ ಮುದ್ರಕಗಳ ಬಗ್ಗೆ ಆಕ್ರೋಶ ವ್ಯಕ್ತಪಡಿಸುತ್ತಿದ್ದಾರೆ. ಥರ್ಮೋಪ್ಲ್ಯಾಸ್ಟಿಕ್ಸ್ ಅಥವಾ ಇತರ ವಸ್ತುಗಳಿಂದ ಲೇಯರ್-ಬೈ-ಲೇಯರ್ ಮುದ್ರಣವನ್ನು ಬಳಸುವ ಮೂಲಮಾದರಿ ಸಾಧನಗಳು (ಮೂಲಭೂತವಾಗಿ ಸಣ್ಣ ಸಿಎನ್‌ಸಿ ಎರಕದ ಯಂತ್ರಗಳು) ಮತ್ತು ಯಾವುದೇ ಆಕಾರದ ವಿವಿಧ ಭಾಗಗಳನ್ನು ಪುನರುತ್ಪಾದಿಸಬಹುದು.

ಅವರಿಗೆ ವಿಶಾಲವಾದ ಅವಕಾಶಗಳಿವೆ, ಖಂಡಿತ! ಕೈಗಾರಿಕಾ ಮತ್ತು ದೇಶೀಯ ಬಳಕೆಯಲ್ಲಿ.

ಚಾಕೊಲೇಟ್ನಿಂದ ಮಾಡಿದ ನಿಮ್ಮ ಸ್ವಂತ ತಲೆಗೆ ಕಾರ್ಯಸಾಧ್ಯವಾದ ಕಾರನ್ನು ಜೋಡಿಸಲು ನೀವು ಘಟಕಗಳಿಂದ ಏನನ್ನೂ ಮುದ್ರಿಸಬಹುದು. ಮಾಡೆಲರ್ಗಳು, DIYers ಮತ್ತು DIYers ಅಭ್ಯಾಸದಲ್ಲಿ ಅಗತ್ಯವಿರುವ ಎಲ್ಲಾ ರೀತಿಯ ವಿವರಗಳನ್ನು ನಮೂದಿಸಬಾರದು.

ಅವುಗಳನ್ನು ಸಿದ್ಧ ಮತ್ತು ಸೆಟ್ಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಮಾರಾಟ ಮಾಡಲಾಗುತ್ತದೆ.

ಆದರೆ ಈ “ಆಟಿಕೆಗಳು” ಮತ್ತು ಅವುಗಳಿಗೆ ಬಳಸಬಹುದಾದ ವಸ್ತುಗಳು, ಅತ್ಯಂತ ಪ್ರಾಚೀನವಾದವುಗಳು ಸಹ ಬಹಳ ದುಬಾರಿಯಾಗಿದೆ. ಮತ್ತು ಅವರಿಗೆ ಕಂಪ್ಯೂಟರ್, ಸೂಕ್ತವಾದ ಸಾಫ್ಟ್‌ವೇರ್ ಅಗತ್ಯವಿರುತ್ತದೆ ಮತ್ತು ಇವೆಲ್ಲವನ್ನೂ ಬಳಸುವ ಸಾಮರ್ಥ್ಯವೂ ಒಂದು ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಅಂಶವಾಗಿದೆ. ಸಂಕ್ಷಿಪ್ತವಾಗಿ, ಆಧುನಿಕ ತಂತ್ರಜ್ಞಾನಗಳು ಇನ್ನೂ ಎಲ್ಲರಿಗೂ ಲಭ್ಯವಿಲ್ಲ.

ಏತನ್ಮಧ್ಯೆ, ನೀವು ತಲೆಯನ್ನು ಆನ್ ಮಾಡಿದರೆ, ಅದನ್ನು ಪ್ಲಾಸ್ಟಿಕ್‌ನಿಂದ ಪುನರಾವರ್ತಿಸಿ ಅಥವಾ ಎಲ್ಲಾ ರೀತಿಯ “ಸಣ್ಣ ವಸ್ತುಗಳ” ತಯಾರಿಕೆಯನ್ನು ಸ್ಟ್ರೀಮ್‌ನಲ್ಲಿ ಇರಿಸಿ. ಅದು ಅಷ್ಟು ಕಷ್ಟವಲ್ಲ. ಕನಿಷ್ಠ, ಪೀಠೋಪಕರಣ ಫಿಟ್ಟಿಂಗ್ ಅಥವಾ ಅದೇ ರೀತಿಯ, ಗೇರುಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಸ್ಟ್ಯಾಂಡ್ ಮಾದರಿಗಳ ವಿನ್ಯಾಸ ಅಂಶಗಳನ್ನು ನಕಲು ಮಾಡುವುದು ಖಂಡಿತವಾಗಿಯೂ ಕೆಲಸ ಮಾಡುತ್ತದೆ. ಆಕಾರವನ್ನು ಮಾಡಲು ಇದು ಸಾಕು, ಮತ್ತು ಯಾವುದೇ ಉತ್ಪನ್ನವನ್ನು ನೀವು ಬಯಸಿದಷ್ಟು ಬಾರಿ ಪುನರಾವರ್ತಿಸಬಹುದು. ಈ ಉದ್ದೇಶಕ್ಕಾಗಿ ನಾವು ಒಂದು ಸಣ್ಣ ನಿರ್ವಾತ ಎರಕದ ಸ್ಥಾವರವನ್ನು ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಿದ್ದೇವೆ. ಅದರ ಅಂಶಗಳನ್ನು ಹತ್ತಿರದಿಂದ ನೋಡೋಣ.

ಕ್ಯಾಸ್ಟಿಂಗ್-ವ್ಯಾಕ್ಯೂಮ್ ಪ್ಲಾಂಟ್ ಸುಲಭವಾದ 3D ಪ್ರಿಂಟರ್ ಆಗಿ. ರೇಖಾಚಿತ್ರಗಳು

ಜ್ಯಾಕ್ ಬಳಸಿ ನಿರ್ಮಾಣವನ್ನು ಒತ್ತಿರಿ:

ಟೈ ಬಾರ್ 16 ಮಿಮೀ; 5.ಟಾಪ್ ಪ್ಲೇಟ್ (240x240x40 ಮಿಮೀ); 6. ಜ್ಯಾಕ್ ಲಿವರ್

ಇಂಜೆಕ್ಷನ್ ಮೋಲ್ಡಿಂಗ್ ಯಂತ್ರ ಜೋಡಣೆ:
1. ಜ್ಯಾಕ್ ಸ್ಕ್ರೂ; 2. ಜಾಕ್ನ ಹಿಮ್ಮಡಿ: 3. ಮೇಲಿನ ಪ್ರೆಸ್ ಪ್ಲೇಟ್; 4. ರೂಪ; 5. ಪಿಸ್ಟನ್; 6. ಸಿಲಿಂಡರ್; 7. ಅಂಚುಗಳು; 8. ಕಲ್ನಾರಿನ ಗ್ಯಾಸ್ಕೆಟ್ನೊಂದಿಗೆ ಪ್ಯಾಲೆಟ್

ವಿದ್ಯುತ್ ಒಲೆ ವಿನ್ಯಾಸ:

1. ಬೇಸ್ ಪ್ಲೇಟ್; 2. ಪ್ಲಗ್; 3.4. ಕವರ್; 5.ಸುರುಳಿ

MakerBot industries: a printer you can build yourself

The main difference between this device is the ability to download all the drawings from the site and create a printer with your own hands right at home. The Cupcake printer created by this company is distinguished by its openness, that is, each user can independently introduce structural elements into it and thereby create a completely new device. The working area of ​​the printer is enough to create various items for household needs.

The Cupcake 3D printer is based on the inexpensive FDM 3D printing technology, which involves the creation of objects by layering material. The consumable material is ABS plastic, which is melted by the print head and applied to the working surface layer by layer. This is how the final object is formed. With this device, you can create a variety of three-dimensional models:

  • Jewelry, bijouterie,
  • Details with details inside, for example, a keychain with some kind of whistle inside, while the printing process will not be interrupted,
  • Models with complex mechanisms,
  • Layouts of various buildings,
  • Car models.

From a rational point of view, this printer can be used to create parts that will later be used in other machines. Due to the strength and convenience of working with ABS plastic, the final product will withstand mechanical stress.

Fourth: check time

To test the motors, download the Arduino IDE physical computing environment. http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software. download and install version 23. Now download the Marlin firmware (you can download it from here. Marlin_e-waste), since it is already completely in the mood. After installing the Arduino, connect the computer to the Ramps / Sanguino / Gen6-7 CNC controller via a USB cable, then select the appropriate port for Arduino IDE = tools / serial port and find the controller type under = tools / Ramps board (Arduino Mega 2560), Sanguinololu / Gen6 (Sanguino W / ATmega644P. Sanguino must be installed inside). All the necessary configuration parameters are collected in the file “configuration.h”.

Now in the Arduino environment you need to open the firmware, find the downloaded file in it and define the configuration parameters, after which the firmware is downloaded to the controller.

  • #define MOTHERBOARD 3 value according to the real equipment we use (Ramps 1.3 or 1.4 = 33, Gen6 = 5);
  • Thermistor 7 value, RepRappro uses Honeywell 100k “hot nozzle”;
  • PID this value makes the hot nozzle more stable in terms of temperature;
  • Steps per unit, this is an important point for setting up any controller (step 9).

Sixth: attention to wiring

At this point, it is time to test the operation of the printer motors. To do this, we connect the computer to the controller via a USB cable, and the motors to the required terminals. We launch Repetier Host and activate the communication between the controller and the software via the serial port, which still needs to be selected. If the connection is correct, it will be possible to control the connection of the motors by means of manual control.

When using the printer, care must be taken to ensure that the motors do not overheat, especially if the device is used for too long. To do this, at the stage of testing the motor, you need to pay attention to adjusting the amount of current that will be supplied to the motor. This is an important procedure to avoid losing stride. For testing, we connect only one motor corresponding to one axis. Then we will also check the rest of the motors using a multimeter connected in series between the controller and the power supply.

To do this, we connect only one motor, which corresponds to one axis. We will carry out the same operation for the two remaining engines. For this step, we need a multimeter that is connected in series between the power supply and the controller, while the device is set to the current measurement mode.

READ  How to Make Figures Out of 3D Pens

Now we connect the controller to the computer, while measuring the current with a multimeter. After activating the motor through the Repetier interface, the current should increase by a certain amount, and the display of the measuring device will show information about the current of the running stepper motor. The current must be defined for each motor-axis, and the values ​​will be different. To set a limit on the value for each axis, set up a small potentiometer for the stepper motor. The setting is carried out in accordance with the following parameters:

  • For the wiring board, set 80 mA.
  • For the axes of stepper motors X and Y, set the current to 200 mA.
  • For the Z-axis, more current is needed, since it is along this axis that the carriage will move, which means that more energy will be required. Here we set the volume of current 400 mA.
  • For the extruder motor, set the current to 400 mA.

Ninth: attention to the extruder

The plastic fiber feeding drive will consist of a NEMA 17 stepper motor and an MK7 / MK8 gear drive. You will also need to download the driver for controlling the elements of the printer’s extruder. you can do this using the following links:

  • Extruder at rest: e-waste_extruder_idle
  • Extruder body: e-waste_extruder_body
  • Hot nozzle: RepRapPro_mount

The principle of operation of the extruder is as follows. The plastic fiber will be drawn into it and fed into the heating chamber. Between it and the fiber drum, the fiber is guided into the heat-resistant Teflon tube. The direct drive is assembled by attaching a stepper motor to it and mounting on an acrylic frame. To calibrate the plastic flow, measure the distance and lay the tape in this area. Now we go to the Repetier software, where we set the resulting figure on the extruder.

Tenth: time of testing!

The 3D printer can now be considered ready for the first test. We use 1.75mm plastic fiber in the extruder. The choice of this material is not accidental: it is more flexible and plastic, therefore it is subjected to pressing. In addition, this fiber thickness will require less energy during printing. We will use PLA, which is a biological material, melts at lower temperatures, is environmentally friendly and easy to use.

Launch Repetier and activate the Skeinforge profile slices. Let’s try to print a small cube to check the calibration. It will print quickly, so you can immediately detect configuration problems, loss of motor steps after checking the actual size of the resulting cube. To start printing, open the STL model, slice the standard profile (or downloaded) to see the object and its corresponding g-code. The extruder is heated, and after the melting point of the plastic is reached, we squeeze out a little material to make sure that the system is working correctly.

Now we move the printhead of the extruder to the origin, while it should be as close to the carriage as possible, but not touching it. This will be the initial position of the head. from now on you can start the printing process on the 3D printer you have created.

Assembling a 3d printer at home. detailed instructions

Their own 3D printer is the dream of many, but not everyone has the opportunity to purchase it. In this article, we’ll show you how to create a DIY 3D printer based on recycled electronic parts. The final cost of the device will not exceed 100. Let’s start by analyzing the features of the universal CNC system, after which we will learn to operate the printer using the g-code. Then a plastic extruder will be added to the system, a motor power regulator, after which your printer will come to life. Note that each 3D printer that will be created independently will consist of the following components:

  • corps,
  • guides,
  • stepper motors,
  • print head,
  • power supply,
  • controllers.

Possible build problems

It’s possible to create a 3D printer with your own hands, but, as you can see, this process is not an easy one. Here are the main difficulties that you are likely to face:

  • Assemble the device so that there are no gaps in it. Even small gaps will make the printing process incorrect and of poor quality.
  • Such devices can work intermittently, which is due to the not very high quality of parts.
  • A lot of work remains to be done with controllers that also frequently malfunction.
  • It is possible that the homemade printhead will not have high quality and print accuracy.

Fifth: learning to operate the printer

This is done through special programs that are always in the public domain. It is with their help that you can interact and control the printer. In this case, we use the Repetier Host. it can be downloaded from the link http://www.repetier.com/. The slicer is installed and integrated, which is part of the software and is needed to generate sequential sections of the object to be printed. After the generation is completed, the sections will be combined into layers, as a result of which the g-code for the printer will be obtained. Slicer is configurable in terms of the following parameters, which play an important role in improving print quality:

  • section heights;
  • print speed;
  • filling, etc.

A common slicer configuration is provided on the following resources: Skeinforge configuration. http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/wiki/index.php/Skeinforge; Slic3r config- http://manual.slic3r.org/. We used the Skeinforge profile, which can be integrated into the Repetier Host (link to the Skeinforge_profile_for_e_waste profile)

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