Printing problems and solutions
There are a lot of problems associated with mastering 3D printing: from assembling a printer to incorrectly printed models. Let’s draw your attention to a few points.
When choosing a model, it is necessary to correlate the design with the dimensions of the printer. Some models should be printed in parts and glued.
When choosing a model, you need to take into account the conditions of its operation. It is unreasonable to print bakeware with materials that have a melting point of 105-150 температура when the oven temperature is about 200 также, nor can you print food contact with toxic plastics.
Not everything needs to be printed. Some things are easier to make with materials at hand than spend time modeling, printing and post-processing.
It is not always possible to immediately select the correct printing temperature, it may differ for materials from different manufacturers, in addition, thermistors in different printers have different sensitivity. It is for the selection of temperature that temperature pyramids and their analogs are printed.
Also read in our blog a separate large article on solving problems arising during 3D printing: “Problems of 3D printing and their elimination”, which will be released in the near future.
After the printer is warmed up and configured, you can start printing. As the first model, users often choose one of the test ones: a cube, a 3D Benchy boat or a temperature pyramid.
In order for the printed model to stick to the printing table, not to stick or deform during printing, it is necessary that the first layer of the model adheres well to the table. The process of sticking the model to the table is called adhesion, and peeling or delamination is called delamination.
To achieve good adhesion, it is recommended to print the first layer at a slower speed than subsequent layers. So the plastic has time to better adhere to the table surface. In addition, it is advisable to make it thicker in order to compensate for the unevenness of the table or the substrate lying on it.
To achieve good adhesion, users have compiled a huge list of “folk methods”. To prevent the model from peeling off, use: masking or blue tape, heat-resistant tape kapton, glue stick or PVA glue, hairspray, beer or cola, ABS or PLA solution in acetone, adhesive and self-adhesive films, glass or mirror.
In addition, there are several more auxiliary methods for good adhesion: printing rafts, edges or brims and skirts. Raft is a specially printed underlay that is placed under the product. However, the raft spoils the surface of the model. Brims (margins or edges) are printed around the perimeter of the print object, without touching the base. They are easier to detach from the model than rafts. A skirt, a skirt is a brim that does not touch the object and is at a distance from it. Skirt printing is primarily used to test the operation of the printer. High skirt printing protects the model from drafts and uneven cooling.
3D Printer Software
The software used in 3D printing is widely represented on the market. There are many paid and free programs for 3D modeling, model editing, slicing. Some of them are intuitive and suitable for beginners, while others can only be understood by professionals.
For an overview of the most popular, well-proven programs for modeling, processing and printing of volumetric objects, read here.
Once mechanical calibration has been performed, it is necessary to find the optimal parameters for the initial print. They can be configured manually, or you can use the popular online 3D printer calibration utility.
How to set up a 3D printer
Hello everyone! Top 3D Shop is with you and in the next review we are talking about how to set up a 3D printer.
If you became the owner of a 3D printer or needed to master additive technologies for work, read our recommendations for setting up a printer and successfully printing the first models.
Connecting a 3D printer
Before connecting the assembled 3D printer to the mains, you need to check if the transport locks have been removed. Leaving straps on the belt can damage the printer.
Depending on the model, users can use various printing methods: from an SD card, from a USB flash drive, from a stationary computer with a wired connection, via Wi-Fi or Ethernet, and in most cases, different combinations of these possibilities. Many models offer 2-3 printing methods.
Compare printing from an SD card and from a desktop computer or laptop.
Both methods have advantages and disadvantages. Printing from a computer is clearer, in addition. you can make changes directly during the printing process. When working with an SD card, printing is not affected by the workload of the computer and the accidental disconnection of the USB cable connecting the printer to the computer is excluded. Printing from SD cards is more reliable, but it is not uncommon to encounter problems reading them. When printing over Wi-Fi, there may also be difficulties, usually associated with the stability of the signal reception of the printer. Read more about printing on 3D printers with different types of data transfer, possible difficulties and their solutions in one of the upcoming articles.
The most reliable option is to pre-copy the file into the printer’s internal memory, where it can be transferred by any of the above methods (usually via a wired connection or via Wi-Fi, but maybe from a carrier), as, for example, in printers from Raise and Phrozen.
When printing from a laptop or desktop computer, the printer must be connected to them using a USB cable. When the operating system detects the printer as a new device, it will automatically install the drivers for your printer. If the drivers are not installed automatically, the drivers need to be downloaded from the Internet for your operating system or installed from the media that came with the printer.
For printing from an SD card. a card with 3D object files recorded on it is placed in the corresponding slot of the printer. Typically, an SD card with several test model files is supplied with the printer.
Read more about printing from other media in the article “How to 3D-print from a computer, from an SD card, over Wi-Fi, over a local area network”, which will be released soon. keep for updates!
Printing with supports
For complex model geometries, slicer programs generate special supports for overhanging elements. Despite the fact that the supports spoil the surfaces in contact with them (if they are printed from the same material), one must understand that without supports, overhanging elements cannot be printed. they will sag and the model will lose shape. Printing without supports is acceptable for walls with an inclination angle of no more than 70 degrees.
In printers with two or more extruders, supports can be printed from a material whose solvent does not interact with the base model material, such as PVA (water-soluble) or HIPS (D-limonene-soluble). This allows you to remove the supports as accurately as possible, leaving no marks on the surface, without the need for mechanical removal and subsequent stripping.
Most devices use this technology. Production takes place through the rapid formation of a prototype for the initial demonstration of the characteristics of the future product. This method is popularly known as additive manufacturing.
If material is removed during turning, milling, or electrical discharge machining, and punching, forging and pressing affect the shape of the workpiece, then in these cases, additive manufacturing increases the mass of the material, increasing the layers.
Simply put, the printer changes the phase state of matter in a certain boundary of space. Today, printing goes in several directions:
With the help of a 3D printer, computer and supplies, amazing things can be created from tiny knick-knacks to bicycle bodies and auto parts.
How to set up your printer correctly
It is one thing to purchase a printing device, connect it and install all the necessary drivers, and another thing is to solve the problem of how to set up the printer’s printing. In general, in this case, you will not need any special knowledge and skills, because setting up a printer is a process that can be performed by any user of office equipment. For this purpose, carefully read the instructions below, which will definitely help you configure the properties of the printer or mfp as you need it.
- To answer the question on how to set up a printer for printing, first of all, click on the “Start” menu and open the “Control Panel”.
- Go to the section called “Printers and Devices”. it may have a slightly different name depending on the version of Windows OS installed on your personal computer, for example, Printers and Faxes in Windows 10.
- Find your device icon and open its properties. To display the “properties” just click on it and in the left part of the opened taskbar, click on the appropriate item.
- To make the setting really optimal, go to the “Forms” tab, where you have to choose one of the standard templates for printing, for example, A3, A4, etc. If necessary, you can not only make changes to the existing template, but also create your own.
- Now you have to configure the port. Go to the corresponding tab in the same device properties window. There will be a list of printer ports that you can delete and change. Add a new one if necessary.
To further solve the problem related to how to set up a printer for printing, you have to right-click on the desired device and click on the appropriate item in the context menu that opens. But in Windows 10, for this purpose, you should left-click on the selected device, then click on “Control” and select “Settings” on the left side of the displayed window. Then follow these steps:
- So, setting up your printing device, first of all, pay attention to the tab called “Basic”. There you need to set such a characteristic as print quality (for example, higher or standard), as well as determine the page orientation (book or paper) and the type of print.
- Now open the tab called “Paper”. There, to solve the problem of how to set up a printer, you need to decide on the number of copies and scaling. Please note, however, that the enlargement or reduction function will not work in Eco mode! In the section with paper parameters, you have to select its type, namely: paper or envelope.
- Click on the “Graphics” tab. There you first need to decide on the font and text. If you are interested in the answer to the question of how to configure the printer to print only in black, then select “Print all text in black”. In some models (for example, Canon), to make black and white text, you need to open the properties of the device and go to the “Additional settings” tab. There you need to select “Print in black / in grayscale”, then click on “Apply”.
- In the same “Graphics” tab, check or uncheck the “Sharp edges” option as you like, and select the optimal toner saving and density settings. In the latter case, decide between normal, light and dark. It is thanks to this parameter that you can solve the problem related to how to adjust the brightness of the print. It is very useful if the original document contains dark / dim areas of the image. But in Canon devices, first you need to select “Manual” on the “Home” tab. in the Color / Intensity section. After that, click on “Set” and specify the brightness of light / normal / dark.
- With regard to saving the dye, it is preferable to leave the selected option “Detected by the printer”.
- If you want to impose a watermark or some text on the printout, then feel free to go to the “Advanced” tab and select the options you need. With these settings, you will be able to make your printouts truly original. In addition, through this same tab, you can control the order in which documents are printed and manual duplex printing.
- Open the properties again by right-clicking on the desired device and select the appropriate item. After that, go to the “General” tab and click on the “Test Print” button. At the end, wait for the printed piece of paper.
Some possible problems and how to solve them
Often, users are faced with the fact that the program, when sending a document for printing, selects a completely different device. To solve this kind of problem, you need to install the newly configured device “by default”. In this case, the question may arise about where to find the settings for this? In this case, follow these steps:
- Open the section with printers and other devices installed on your personal computer.
- Find the icon of the required printing device and open its context menu.
- Among the list that opens, click on the item “Use as default”.
It also happens that users of printing office equipment, after making the settings, are faced with the following problem: it was not possible to save the printer parameters. To fix a similar problem, try first to print a test page on your device. how to do this has already been mentioned above. If nothing came of it, then make sure that the icon for your device is actually displayed in the section with printing devices. If it is not there, then reinstall the drivers and reboot.
Another way to solve this problem is to roll back the system to the date when your device was printing normally. You can even try deleting all printers except the current one. Of course, the likelihood that this will help is very scanty, but nevertheless, such an action can be a way out of your situation. Also, check your local drive for errors. If none of the above helped you, then it is best to reinstall the operating system and do not be lazy to create a backup for the future.
Thus, setting up printing on personal computers running different versions of Windows is not such a problematic task. Most importantly, you need to know what print results you want to achieve in order to change the settings of the parameters you really need.
Installing the heating platform
The heating (or not heating, depending on the printer) platform must first be set in height. For this, there is a limit switch for the Z axis.
Limit switch. an electrical device used in control systems as a sensor that generates a signal when a certain event occurs, usually a mechanical contact of a pair of moving mechanisms.
This end piece can be adjusted in height using the clamping and clamping bolts.
You need to set it so that the surface of the platform clearly touches the extruder nozzle.
For further calibration we will use Pronterface from Printrun software package.
The advantage of this package is clear and convenient control of the nozzle and the printer platform, but if someone is more comfortable using Repsnapper, it is also quite suitable. Cura is not suitable for calibration, in the absence of the necessary functionality.
To continue, let’s make sure that when you press the “Calibration” button (“Home”, a white house is shown), the platform rises and rests close, but does not try to move further, to the nozzle.
Since the firmware on my printer was taken directly from the SmartCore Aluminum repository (albeit not directly from Marlin), the nozzle exits to the middle of the platform. If this is not the case with you, and the nozzle remains in the corner according to zero coordinates, it’s okay, for further calibration it’s not important.
The following actions must be carried out in turn on the center, in the corners and along the control circle:
- Click on Z-axis calibration
- If the corner rests against the nozzle (the center should rest, as we achieved by adjusting the height of the limit switch during preparation), then slightly press the platform bolt at this corner until the minimum clearance appears.
- We eliminate the minimum clearance, but not more. Ideally, we should have a nozzle clearly end-to-end in all corners and in the center when pressing the Z-axis calibration.This is exactly the result we need to achieve for high-quality printing, about control of the result later.
- Now you need to make sure that when you click on, a gap will appear. If this does not happen, you can slightly loosen the bolt that presses this corner and, by pressing successively either the green house, then the “0.1” button, repeat until the desired result is obtained.
After we finished the calibration at all five points and checked them so that we did not have to change anything, we can proceed to checking the calibration result.
3D Printer Calibration
Sometimes the owner of a 3D printer has to do this. I will tell the Habra community about my method. Please note that the manual is detailed, but leads to excellent results. the model sticks perfectly and does not peel off during the printing process.
To begin with, I will note that I perfected my skills on the SmartCore Aluminum printer purchased here.
For testing, I use a simple model drawn in FreeCAD and generated by gcode in Cura. The more precise the plastic, the better. I take it here because of the declared accuracy and variety of colors. However, for testing we will use the natural color of ABS plastic.
The implication of a simple little test model is probably clear. saving money and time. It is in this sequence that it makes sense to check. However, if you are confident in your calibration, you can immediately start from step 2. Well, if you already have experience and you are absolutely confident in your calibration, you can go directly to step 3. print 5pad.gcode.
The difference in the number and location of products.
I will describe the verification of the first step, since the rest are similar.
Suppose one side of the platform is calibrated too high. This is very easy to spot as a result:
Top view: And what is more important for us now is the bottom view:
. This is what the Cura rim looks like if the nozzle is too high to the platform. Plastic does not fall accurately, sometimes clinging to adjacent lines.
Consider the opposite situation. if the nozzle is too pressed against the platform: As you can see, not everything is smooth here either, the plastic, trying to fill the available space, will overlap the adjacent lines, and on the next layer the nozzle re-clings, it is again injected over the available space. However, it should be noted that the model adheres very well in this case, and the calibration defect is not visible on the next layers. over, it may not even be noticeable at all if you choose a substrate in Cura to adhere the model to the table.
Finally, the desired and correct result: Here you see a slight burning, but it is associated with an uncleaned piece of thread, which is clearly visible in the photo from the bottom view. Such burns are rather inherent in the previous case, when the nozzle is too pressed. And the rest. straight lines, tightly laid. It should be so. Congratulations. center point calibration is successful.
A normal situation if this result is obtained on glass at a temperature of 100 degrees. In this case, if the glass is degreased and even, then after the end of the calibration, it will not come off during the printing process. You can try peeling the part off the heated bed after printing. Until it cools down to 90-80 degrees, you may not even be able to do it without damaging the glass. Also, the absence of a draft may be important, which affects the equally important uniformity of heating of the platform surface.
View from above:
Further verification is similar in essence, but 4pad.gcode should be printed. it covers a slightly larger central area. And 5pad.gcode. will show the quality of the calibration by the corners.
To conclude, an entertaining video showing the enjoyment of the result:
As you can see, I’m not printing on glass, but more on that in the next article.
Windows standard parameters
If you need to print a photo only once or this operation does not start so often, it makes sense to use the standard Windows settings directly when preparing the image for printing. Then the configuration principle looks like this:
Select a picture to print and right-click on it. In the context menu that appears, you need the “Print” option.
In the “Print images” window that opens, expand the “Printer” drop-down menu and find the used Canon device in the list.
Decide on the type of paper right away, as A4 is most often used for printing photographs.
Set paper size and print quality in separate drop-down menus.
If the picture does not fit on the sheet, check the box next to “Fit to frame”.
Use the panel on the right to select the size of the photo on the sheet, focusing on the available formats.
Click “Print” after checking the installed settings.
The disadvantage of this method is that it will not be possible to set the color and some other parameters, which were discussed in Method 1. However, most often, when printing images once, these settings do not change.
Print Settings Menu
The first option is suitable for those users who want to use a Canon printer on a permanent basis for printing photos. Then you can choose a permanent setting through the driver menu, setting the appropriate parameters. Please note that this configuration will make it impossible to print regular documents.
Navigate through the left pane to the Printers & Scanners category.
Click on the Canon printer to be configured to display the management tools.
In the list of available tools, you are interested in the clickable inscription “Print settings”.
If the print setting supports quick setup, you can select Photo Print from the list of default settings.
Next, look at the additional features and check the boxes that you want to activate. When enabled, certain of them will need to be adjusted manually, for example, choosing the brightness and intensity of the color.
Check the box next to “Always print with current settings” if you want to save them without re-setting in the future.
If there are no commonly used options or they do not suit you, go to the “Home” tab.
There, set the media type by choosing the appropriate option from the Photo Paper category. Accordingly, you need to indicate the type of paper used.
If your printer has multiple sources of paper, be sure to select it in the drop-down menu so that there are no paper feed problems.
Choose the print quality at your own discretion, following the changes in the preview window.
As for the color and intensity, here mark the “Manual” item with a marker, then click on the “Set” button to display the settings.
Check out the available color options, move the sliders and specify options based on your personal preference.
The image on the left changes based on the specified settings, so keep an eye on it for the desired result.
If suddenly something went wrong, just click “Default”, resetting the settings to standard.
Please note that the options available for change may vary depending on the printer model used, so the above instructions are not 100% accurate, but will be relevant in most cases and will help you cope with the basic settings.
Some users prefer to work in special photo processing programs. They and other applications for printing pictures allow you to adjust the settings just before starting the operation. You will find information about such programs and instructions on how to interact with them in other articles on our website by clicking on the links below.
Default Printer Assignment
One of the configuration steps is to set the printer as the default device, which will allow you to immediately print documents, and when you select a specific model, if several are connected at the same time, it will always be displayed at the top.
To do this, open the “Start” menu and go to “Settings”.
Find the used device model there and click on it.
A menu will appear for selection, from which you need “Control”.
Click on the “Use as default” button and wait for the notification that this printer is now set as the main one. This is also indicated by the line “Printer status”.
If necessary, return to the same menu and designate another device as the main printer. there are no restrictions in this regard and the setting is available at any time.
The next step, which also cannot be done without, is the installation of drivers. With their help, not only printing is realized, but also changes in the printer parameters in the future. On our site there are materials on installing drivers for different models of printers from HP, and you can use the search by entering the model name in the line. If the instructions could not be found, pay attention to the general guide.
Connecting the device to a computer
The configuration process is divided into several stages, the first of which involves connecting it to a computer, since without establishing a connection, no further actions can be performed. This requires a minimum amount of effort by unpacking the device itself and reconnecting all cables. However, those who have not done anything like this before may have difficulties, so for a better understanding with a separate thematic guide at the following link.
A more difficult task is to connect a network printer, which can also be a model from HP. Then you will additionally need to change some parameters of the operating system and check the functioning of the peripheral device. To do this, we also offer detailed instructions aboutHonor by clicking on the title below.
Using a branded application
For advanced models of printers and multifunctional devices from HP, the developer offers a proprietary application that is automatically installed in Windows 10. It allows you to connect the equipment itself, start printing from it, as well as perform basic settings. Let’s take a look at the main actions available in this application.
In the same section of the Options menu, go to printer management.
Run the app from there if supported and installed. If not, skip this guide and read the next.
In the application itself, confirm the license agreement to start using.
If the printer is missing, add it manually.
It must be connected to the computer, after which it will immediately be displayed in the list, where you need to left-click on its image.
The main controls for the device will appear, through which you should go to the settings.
In this block, you can monitor its status, as well as run the built-in troubleshooter that will help solve most of the common problems.
Go to the “Settings” section, the number of parameters in which depends on the model used. Somewhere the paper size or color for printing is available for change, and in some models there are no configuration items at all.
Using the Print Settings Menu
The “Print Settings” section is available for each printer, but the exact parameters directly depend on the peripheral developers. HP printers are characterized by several standard settings, which will be discussed below.
In the device control menu, click on the clickable inscription “Print settings”.
The first tab is called “Print Shortcuts” and is responsible for changing the default settings for a specific format of print products. These can be envelopes, various labels, transparencies or other projects, and the use of templates will allow you to do without manual adjustment before printing.
If you are using a custom paper size or prefer a lower quality to conserve ink, you will find all the options you need under the Paper / Quality tab.
Sometimes effects are also supported, allowing you to change the print format or add a background image, but this is typical only for some models.
The Finishing tab is suitable for those who are going to print on both sides of the sheet with manual or automatic processing. Here you can specify the number of pages per sheet, binding position and sheet orientation.
Each printer stores a job, which allows you to return to it, view the result, or repeat at a certain point. You have the right to choose the storage mode and the user to which the task will be assigned.
The number of options on the last Advanced tab is highly dependent on the printer model. Somewhere you can only choose the color of the print, but somewhere there are many auxiliary options.
Harolite (LE). This is a 3D printer platform surface coating designed for Nylon 3D printing. Harolite is a fiberglass / epoxy laminate. There are many types of harolite, and some are particularly well suited for creating good adhesion when 3D printed with nylon filament. When using Harolite, heating of the 3D printer platform or the use of other adhesion promoters is not required, although sometimes a layer of glue can be applied.
Ways to improve adhesion of a printed product to a 3D printer platform
In the process of 3D printing, an important factor is the high adhesion of the printed product to the 3D printer platform. If the first layer of the printed product does not adhere to the platform, then there is a high probability that the 3D printing will not be successful. High adhesion of the printed product to the 3D printer platform helps to reduce deformation, especially at corners and protruding elements.
At the beginning of printing on any printer, you need to adjust the height of the first layer along the Z axis. The distance between the hot layer and the nozzle should be 50%. 75% of the layer height. In practice, you can check this distance with a sheet of A4 paper with a weight of 80mg / m3. If a sheet of paper passes between the platform and the nozzle of the 3D printer, then you have correctly adjusted the height of the first layer.
Examples of how to properly set up a 3D printer desktop can be seen in the following videos:
Most of the simplest 3D printers come with a glass or aluminum platform surface that many users choose to print directly onto.
The first and very important rule to improve the adhesion of the printed product to the 3D printer platform, when printing on a smooth surface, is to clean and degrease the surface with isopropyl alcohol to remove accumulated dust and dirt. Many 3D printer users neglect this point, which is often the reason for the deformation of the first layer of the printed product from the 3D printer platform.
The second rule to improve the adhesion of the printed product to the 3D printer platform is to use additional means, such as heat-resistant and Kapton tapes, thermal mats, PVP glue, ABS solution, borosilicate glass, harolite, PEI film.
Heat-resistant tape (scotch tape)
Heat-resistant tape is preferable to use when printing products with PLA, coPET, Elastan, Nylon. Before gluing the tape or sheet, it is necessary to degrease the surface of the platform and glue the tape as smoothly as possible, joint to joint, so that later there will be no defects on the printed product. The use of tape is relatively cheap, easy to remove the printed product, but often disposable.
Thermal mat. It is the most popular and versatile reusable coating for the surface of the 3D printer platform. Using a thermal mat allows you to maximize the adhesion of the printed product to the 3D printer platform, as well as protect the platform from damage.
A thermal mat is a polymer sheet with an adhesive backing or on a magnetic base. If it is a sheet with an adhesive backing, then it is necessary to remove the protective film, and then glue it to the platform of the 3D printer (in this case, you must first degrease the platform and you can heat it to 40-50 ° C;). After gluing the thermal mat, it is necessary to calibrate the 3D printer platform before starting 3D printing.
The water-soluble stick glue improves the adhesion of the printed product to the platform. It is preferable to use it for 3D printing with materials such as ABS, ABS, ABSeco, PBT, PC, in cases of poor adhesion of products with coPET and PLA. The glue can be applied both to glass or aluminum platform, and on top of paper tape (often used for 3D printing PA, Nylon), kapton. Advantages of using glue are ease of application, low cost and the ability to use with almost all materials for 3D printing. The only drawback in this case is the presence of a dirty layer on the surface of the printed product, which can be easily cleaned with plain water.
ABS solution in ethyl acetate or acetone
To achieve good adhesion of ABS, ABSeco plastics to the 3D printer platform, you can use a solution of ABS in acetone or ethyl acetate. To make such a solution, it is necessary to mix 60-90 ml of ethyl acetate and 15-20 cm of ABS thread chopped into pieces. Ideal consistency of the prepared ABS solution in terms of viscosity. more water, but less than milk. The mixture should not resemble a paste. The use of an ABS solution to prevent deformation and bending of the corners of the printed matter is one of the most reliable means, provided that an ABS solution of the required consistency is used.
PEI film (Polyetherimide) is commonly used for heated bed 3D printers for 3D printing with materials such as ABS, PLA and many other plastics. You can attach the PEI film to the 3D printer platform using clips (paper binder). Although there are many disagreements regarding the use of PEI film, which boil down to the fact that the printed product is difficult to remove from the film, and for good adhesion of the product, it is necessary to additionally use glue.
Infill Density. This is the amount of material that is fed to the interior of the model. The higher the filling, the more rigid the model. As a rule, this parameter is set at 20%.
Different options for displaying a 3D model
There are three main options for displaying a model in Cura 3D. Each of the options is useful in its own way, and if you are having problems with 3D printing, one or the other can help you deal with it.
Solid This display is used by default and allows you to evaluate how the model will look after 3D printing. The dimensions and shape of the model are shown relative to your print table. Generally, if you look at the model from all angles and it looks good, 3D printing will be successful.
X-Ray (X-ray). If you run into problems during 3D printing, this display option will help you evaluate the internal structure of the model. Perhaps you will see what exactly is worth reworking into details (for example, intersecting planes may appear inside).
Layers If you have a problem with 3D printing at the same point, or you just want to see a certain section by layer, you can use this option. The most accurate way to move between layers. using the up / down keys on the keyboard. There is also a second option. use the slider for quick viewing. Over time, as you become more experienced with 3D printing, this display option will help you to change settings in the G-code (for example, increase the rotational speed of the cooler, adjust the layer height or the amount of material fed into the extruder) at the level of certain layers.
Setting up a 3D model for Cura 3D. If you need to tweak the model, that’s all it takes. click on it to highlight it and select one of the options from the toolbar on the left. Here you can quickly move, rotate and scale the model.
When you click on one of the options provided, arrows will appear around the model. Just grab the arrow or ring to apply the changes in the direction you want. If you make a mistake, right-click and select Reset.
If you need to print more than one model, right-click on the base surface and select Duplicate. Cura 3D will automatically try to fit the models as well as possible. If there is enough room to print two or more models, the platform will be yellow. If there is not enough space, the print space will be grayed out.
What is Cura 3D?
Cura 3D. is a slicing program for 3D printers. Cura accepts a 3D model as input and forms separate vertical layers to create a G code file that your 3D printer understands.
Before dealing with Cura, it’s worth understanding the entire process of preparing a 3D model file. Even if you will be using ready-made 3D models, the general understanding should be.
Essentially Cura 3D. it is a 3D printing software. a method of transferring a digital file from your personal computer to a 3D printer so that the latter can process the received data and start printing.
Compared to many other slicing programs, Cura 3D seems extremely simple. But if you need more flexible settings, they are there too. It’s just that the user interface is implemented really competently and conveniently.
Cura 3D is developed and supported by 3D printer manufacturer Ultimaker, renowned for their perfectionism and active support for the open source movement. There are a lot of manual settings, but they are hidden from the user (not so deep in fact), so if you are one of those who are interested in experiments or need certain non-standard 3D printing settings, you can implement them.
For those who just want to print a part, just adjust the speed and quality.
This tutorial is aimed at those who are just getting started with their 3D printer. We will assume that you have just turned on the printer and loaded the print media. From now on, we will consider the necessary steps in Cura 3D to start 3D printing.
Installing Cura 3D
Cura 3D. it is a multi-platform program that is available for Linux, Mac and Windows OS. All versions can be downloaded for free from the Ultimaker website.
You will download the file that will install Cura 3D. The installation procedure may differ slightly depending on your OS. In this tutorial we used Cura 3D version 2.3.1.
- Launch Cura 3D.
- Select your 3D printer model. On first launch, Cura 3D will ask you to select your printer model. If you have Ultimaker or Lulzbot, then they come with a special version of Cura 3D with ready-made settings. If not, or if you want to set up a new 3D printer, then after downloading the program, select ‘Select. Printer ‘.
The 3D printer selection menu will load. If you downloaded the program from the link above, then all available printers will be Ultimaker. To select another model, press Other. If you’re lucky, your 3D printer will be on the list.
If not, you can go to the manufacturer’s website for your printer model and search for a custom version of Cura 3D to download. If it is not there, then select Custom. Add Printer.
A window will open with the option to add 3D printer settings. At this point, you will need information about your model. Again, you can probably find this information on the manufacturer’s website. And if you assembled a 3D printer yourself, then you probably remember all the parameters!
Enter all the required parameters and click Finish.
Top Navigation block
- Open File: Use the button in the upper left corner of the menu or the File option. Open File to open your.stl or.obj file.
- Edit: Use to select all models, delete or align 3D models. Standard, useful commands.
- View Mode: This button allows you to switch between Solid, X-Ray and Layers model views.
- Settings: Opens material and 3D printer settings.
- Extensions: This is for more advanced users. Allows you to install Cura 3D Extensions, which, for example, enable manual editing of the G-code.
- Help: If you have questions, you cannot figure out something. this is a great place for
What exactly does Cura3D do?
Cura 3D converts a.stl or.obj file of a 3D model into a format that the 3D Printer can process. FFF 3D printers form each new layer on top of the previous one. Cura 3D takes a 3D model, cuts it into layers, and sends these instructions to the 3D printer. layer by layer.
These instructions are sent as G-code, a text document with the extension.gcode. If you open the file, you can view the code itself and even figure out the commands.
Over time, as you become more familiar with 3D printing, you will be able to adjust the speed of the coolers, the height of the layers, the temperature of the extruder at different points. This is a very useful skill for fixing some 3D printing problems.
Since each 3D printer has its own characteristics: print volume, table area and nozzle diameter, Cura 3D must know these parameters in order to correctly generate the G-code.
After you specify the design features of your 3D printer model, you can go to the settings for the height and thickness of the layer. Only then Cura 3D will be able to generate the correct G-code with the calculation of the trajectory of movement.
The resulting G-code can be saved to an SD card or transferred to 3D printing via WI-FI (depending on the interface that your 3D printer supports).
Three main stages of preparing files for 3D printing:
- Modeling. Modeling (forming a virtual solid 3D model) is implemented in special applications like 123D Design or SketchUp, etc. These applications support their own specific file formats and allow you to open, edit, save and export these files.
- Export a 3D model file. After you have created your model, you need to export it to an STL or OBJ file. These formats are supported by Cura 3D. They differ from the “native” formats of 3D modeling applications, as they contain information only about the final geometry, without individual nodes and editable content.
- Slicing file export. An STL or OBJ file can be imported into Cura 3D, where it is processed and a G-code is generated at the output. G-code. it is just a text document with commands followed by a 3D printer. For example, the temperature of the extruder is indicated, movement to the left, right, etc.
The first step is to develop a solid model, but if you don’t have a similar experience, don’t worry, you will find a huge number of ready-made models on Thingiverse, Youmagine, and there are other sites where you can download models for 3D printing for free. As a rule, in such repositories, models are already exported in STL format, so you can immediately import them into Cura 3D.